MDWICH SYSTE' 





Class 

Book 

Copyright N°_ 






COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



STEWART & KIDD COMPANY'S 
NATURE AND AGRICULTURAL BOOKS 

THE GARDENETTE. 
By Benjamin F. Albaugh. Net $1.25. 

THE BUSINESS OF FARMING. 
By Wm. C. Smith. Net $2.00. 

HOW TO GROW 100 BUSHELS OF CORN PER ACRE 
ON WORN SOIL. 
By Wm. C. Smith. Net $1.25. 

BIRD STUDIES. 
By Herman C. DeGroat. Net $2.00. 

BOOK OF THE BLACK BASS. 
By Jas. A. Henshall. Net $1.50. 

PRACTICAL ORCHARDING ON ROUGH LANDS. 
By Shepard Wells Moore. Net $1.50. 

MODERN HORSEMANSHIP. 
By Edw. L. Anderson. Net $3.00. 

SCIENTIFIC HORSESHOEING. 
By Prof. Wm. Russell. Net $4.00. 

SUMMER IN A BOG. 
By Katharine Dooris Sharp. Net $1.25. 

See page 139 for description of above Books. 

STEWART & KIDD COMPANY, PUBLISHERS, 
CINCINNATI. 




FRUITS OF THE GARDEN. $350.00 FROM ONE ACRE. 



THE GARDENETTE 

OR CITY BACK YARD GARDENING 

The Sandwich System 



BY 

BENJAMIN F. ALBAUGH 



PartI. vegetable gardening 

Past 2. FLOWER GARDENING 




CINCINNATI 

STEWART & KIDD COMPANY 

1915 



rR 






Copyright, 1915, by 

STEWART & KIDD COMPANY 

All rights reserved 

Copyright in England 



The Publishers desire to ac- 
knowledge the courtesy of Nathan 
R. Graves, Rochester, N. Y., for 
the privilege of reproducing his 
splendid photographs on the cover 
jacket of this volume. Also, the 
valuable assistance of The Threl- 
keld-Walter Engraving Company, 
Cincinnati, who so ably executed 
the work. 



MAY 10.915 
©CI, A 3 987 5 4 



DEDICATION" 



^7TO Iber, who, walking by my 
Vl/ side, has shared my joys 
and griefs, and whose helpful 
labors and sympathy have been 
a constant inspiration, this 
volume is affectionately dedi- 
cated. 

The Authob 



PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 

The favor with which The Gardenette has been 
received has exhausted the first and second edi- 
tions. 

It has been thought best to enlarge and improve 
this edition in accordance with the wishes and 
advice of many readers. 

Therefore, much of that part of the book which 
relates to vegetable growing has been rewritten, 
some new and very successful methods have been 
added, together with some useful tables of ref- 
erence. This part of the volume is styled "The 
Vegetable Garden." 

As there is an urgent and increasing demand 
that the culture of flowering plants should receive 
more attention, we have prepared a complete de- 
partment which is called "The Flower Garden." 

New illustrations have been added, and the 
presswork and binding have been greatly im- 
proved. 

The author desires to express his gratitude for 
the many kind and appreciative words from 
readers. 

To the author, the work has been a labor of 
love, and he will feel well repaid for his efforts, 
if this humble volume is found helpful in the laud- 
able work of "making desert places to blossom 
like the rose," for few things in life are more 

7 



8 PREFACE TO THIRD EDITION 

conducive to health and real happiness than a 
successful garden, which is the direct result of 
our own labor and planning. 

The Authok. 
Covington, Ohio, 
January, 1915. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

Frontispiece 

Celery and Blanching Tubes, Sandwich Beds 16 

Truck Patch, Willow Brook Farm 17 

Plant Incubator, Out-of-doors — Cover Removed .... 26 

Eockyford Cantaloupes at Willow Brook Farm 27 

Details of Plant Forcer or Booster 36 

Plant Booster 37 

A Single Hill of Squashes— Post Hole Method 44 

Swiss Chard Lucullus 45 

Lima Beans 54 

Gradus Peas and Early Cabbage 55 

Onions from Seed — Pickler Onions 64 

Early Ohio Potatoes 65 

Field's Early June Tomatoes 74 

Cantaloupes, Staked Tomatoes, and Sugar Corn, Willow 

Brook Farm 75 

Evergreen Sugar Corn. Golden Bantam Sugar Corn. Rice 

Pop Corn 84 

Cauliflower and Baby Golden Pop Corn 85 

Field's Early June Tomatoes. Staked Tomatoes .... 02 

Livingston's Globe Tomatoes. Willow Brook Farm ... 93 

Flower Garden, Home of the Gardenette, Willow Brook Farm 98 

Nasturtiums. Home of the Gardenette 99 

Plan of Flower Garden, Sundial in Center. Hydrangea Ar- 

borescence Grandiflora. "Hills of Snow" 102 

Flowers on Sandwich Beds 103 

Clematis Paniculata. Twin Lilies 108 

Flowers in Shady Corner. Foxglove 109 

Types of Gladioli 114 

Flowers in Variety. Early Plants in Cold Frame . . . .115 

Pansies from The Gardenette 118 

Dorothy Perkins Climbing Rose 119 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGB 

Ricinus 15 feet high, Willow Brook Farm. Cannas and 

Dahlias. Sandwich Beds 124 

Fragrant Flowers. Lily of the Valley. Honeysuckle . . 125 

Flowers at Home of Gardenette. Native Flowers, Harebells 

and Wild Ferns 128 

Formal Plan of Flower Garden. Border of Annuals . . .129 



Part I 
VEGETABLE GARDENING 



THE GARDENETTE 

OR THE CITY BACK YARD GARDEN 

THIS little volume is not designed as a guide 
to those who have large areas to cultivate, 
nor is it intended for the use of professional mar- 
ket gardeners, but it is arranged to meet the 
needs of the beginner, or amateur, and especially 
for those who have limited areas that are avail- 
able for this purpose. 

Pew persons realize the possibilities of the 
small piece of ground represented by the back- 
yard of the ordinary city lot — that part which 
is not occupied by buildings. Too often this part 
of the yard is made the depository of garbage 
and useless trash of all kinds. 

Such accumulations are unsightly and unsani- 
tary. The Sandwich System herein described is 
not an idle theory but a successful, solid fact, the 
result of six years of careful, painstaking experi- 
ments, and highly successful efforts in practical 
vegetable growing. 

This peculiar method was first suggested by 
noticing the marvelous growth of weeds, etc., 
about the base of an old, decaying strawheap, 
where some stable manure had been dumped on a 
thin layer of straw. On this more straw was 
scratched down by poultry. Lastly on top a few 

13 



14 THE GARDENETTE 

wagon loads of street-scrapings, containing weed 
seeds, were dumped. The growth of these weeds 
was something wonderful. With this hint for a 
beginning, the marvelously successful Sandwich 
Bed was developed. 

The surpassing vigor of growth, the earliness, 
large size, and superior quality of the products 
grown by this method, make gardening a very 
fascinating employment, for it cannot be denied 
that the ability to greatly surpass "The Other 
Fellow" gives especial gratification to those en- 
gaged in this line of work. 

Where the space is limited, only a few articles 
should be attempted. It does not require a large 
area to grow a few fine tomatoes, muskmelons, 
cauliflower or egg plant. Or a bed of lettuce, 
spinach or green onions. 

If only one square rod is available, it will pay 
to have a "gardenette." 

SPACE EEQUIEED 

Three square rods or a space of ground, say 
eighteen by forty-five feet, can be made to pro- 
duce a large part of all the vegetables needed to 
supply the table of a family of five or six persons, 
throughout the season. 

The author has repeatedly produced on such a 
plot, but containing four square rods, about the 
following : 

30 Dozen Green Onions 25 Choice Egg Plant Fruits 

1 Bushel Dry Onions 25 Extra Fine Squashes 

10 Messes Green Peas 50 Messes Lettuce 

15 Dozen Beets 20 Messes Endive 

22 Dozen Eddishes 10 Messes Kohl Rabi 
200 Heads Fine Celery 8 Dozen Sugar Corn 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 15 

10 Messes Green Beans 50 Fine Muskmelons 

25 Heads Finest Cauliflower 200 Pickling Cucumbers 

25 Heads Cabbage 10 Slicing Cucumbers 

20 Messes Spinach 5 Bushels Tomatoes 

10 Messes Chard 2 Bushels Early Potatoes 

20 Messes Asparagus 8 Quarts Lima Beans 

10 Messes Salsify 3 Bushels Turnips 

10 Dozen Carrots 3 Quarts Okra 

10 Dozen Parsnips 3 Dozen Sweet Mangoes 

At a low estimate these are worth $40. Often 
they would cost much more to buy. But it is not 
only the market value of the vegetables, but the 
freshness and fine quality that should be consid- 
ered. Green onions, radishes, green peas, beans, 
lettuce, spinach, and especially celery, rapidly 
lose their crisp freshness when gathered and ex- 
posed for sale a few days before they are used. 

When grown in the home garden they come to 
the table with all their fine flavor unimpaired. 

Then, for the business or professional man, 
who toils all day in office, bank, factory or shop, 
the change to the light physical labor in the open 
air and bright sunshine, gives just the needed 
change necessary for health of both body and 
mind. Such employment will be found restful 
and soothing to the overtaxed and wearied mind 
and nerves. 

A love for digging in the soil seems inherent. 
Try it, and you will soon learn to look forward 
with pleasurable anticipations to the hour before 
breakfast, in the cool, dew} 7 mornings, and the 
hour after supper, when the heat of the day is 
over, that you may spend in the light, delightful 
work of planting, hoeing and watering. 

Watching the growth and development of the 
plants is a constant source of joy and delight. 



16 THE GARDENETTE 

You forget the cares and worries, and gather new 
courage for the morrow. 

Indeed, Amateur Gardening appeals to most of 
us in a way that is totally unlike any other em- 
ployment. The liking for the work seems intui- 
tive: perhaps because it brings us very close to 
nature; possibly because there seems in the hu- 
man mind a lingering memory of the Lost Eden. 
At any rate, this desire and taste for gardening 
is universal, and deserves to be encouraged, for 
it tends to tranquillity of mind, and is conducive 
both to health and longevity. 

SMALL DETAILS 

The author assumes that the reader is without 
practical knowledge of gardening. Hence the 
care in preparing this guide in describing and 
explaining even the most trivial details of the 
work, for success often depends upon the small 
matters, which most authors ignore, forgetting 
that many successful business men have neither 
time nor opportunity to master the minor details 
of a profession which demands work to which 
most men are strangers. Then it may be that 
there are boys, ten to fifteen years old, who can 
be interested in this fascinating work during the 
summer's vacation. It is certainly an ideal oc- 
cupation for most boys, as it affords a method 
of outlet for surplus energy, while the sense of 
proprietorship, and the self-respect which al- 
ways accompanies successful, productive en- 
deavor, all aid in the formation of good, indus- 
trious habits and manly character. Give the boy 



VEGETABLE GABDENING 17 

a chance. It is far better than summer excur- 
sions to the country in doubtful company. 

I would suggest that the family pay to the boy 
or girl a fair price for all the fresh vegetables 
used, as a just and reasonable recompense for 
the labor and care involved. 

The family gets fresh vegetables at a fair price, 
and labor receives its just reward. Try it. En- 
courage the boys and girls in forming habits of 
industry. 

THE SANDWICH SYSTEM 

The method of growing vegetables of great 
earliness and superior quality, herein described, 
is new and entirely unique. By it, the products 
of the garden are always earlier, and at the same 
time of better quality than can possibly be pro- 
duced in any other way. 

Why is this method superior to other meth- 
ods? 

First — Finest vegetables can be grown on hard, 
stony, or alkaline soils, where ordinary cultiva- 
tion would be utterly fruitless. Even where 
''made" soils, consisting mainly of brickbats and 
old wall plaster, the Sandwich Beds flourish. A 
solid rock, a paved street, or the tops of flat 
roofed buildings could be made into successful 
gardens by this method. 

For best results plants need aeration at the 
roots. If air cannot penetrate to the roots the 
plant languishes and dies from suffocation. 
When the surface of the ground is covered with 
water, the plant suffers in the same way and for 



18 THE GAEDENETTE 

the same reason. The Sandwich Beds can 
neither be drowned or smothered. The air cir- 
culates through the several layers of material, 
and if too much water is applied, it readily 
passes through the fibrous beds and does no 
harm. 

Second — Fertility is placed just where it can 
be easily absorbed and assimilated by the plants. 

Third — The fibrous nature of the bed causes it 
to warm up earlier than does the natural soil. 

Fourth — While hydrant water must be sup- 
plied as often as needed, in practice it is found 
that this form of bed does not require as much 
water as would be supposed, for the decaying 
mass of fibrous material retains moisture in a 
way that is surprising. 

All kinds of vegetables and most of flowering 
plants do wonderfully well on Sandwich Beds. 
Celery, spinach, endive, chard, cabbage, cauli- 
flower, kohl-rabi, Brussels sprouts, etc., do excep- 
tionally well. For peas, radishes, carrots, sal- 
sify, parsnips, etc., where the soil is fairly good, 
it seems best to first spade the ground as de- 
scribed in "The Modified Sandwich Bed," mixing 
in manure, and after raking fine and level, cover 
surface with a couple of inches of compost. This 
latter method is better for those vegetables that 
have long, penetrating roots. 

Directions for Making Sandwich Beds 

First — Place a layer of straw or stable litter 
or leaves, about five inches deep. Tramp or pack 
pretty firm and smooth. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 19 

Second — Spread over this a layer about one 
inch deep of rich, fine stable manure. 

Third — On this place another layer of stable lit- 
ter about two inches thick. Tramp or pack this 
down firm. Then turn on the hose, and give the 
mass a thorough soaking, but stop before leach- 
ing begins. 

Fourth — spread evenly over the bed at least 
four inches of street scrapings, but avoid streets 
that have oil or asphalt in their make-up. If 
street scrapings cannot be readily obtained, use 
instead, a compost, of equal parts of fine river 
sand, rich garden soil and old, fine stable manure. 
Mix by shoveling over in a heap. 

After all is in place, tramp till firm and it is 
ready to plant. 

It has been found that autumn is the best time 
to prepare the Sandwich Beds. They will dry 
off and warm up very early in the spring. How- 
ever, a spring-made bed is just as successful if 
the directions are carefully followed. 

The Modified Sandwich Bed 

It sometimes happens that the real Sandwich 
Bed is not possible or practicable; in such cases, 
if the soil is reasonably fertile, and in good con- 
dition, the following method may be successfully 
adopted. 

Procure one load of rich stable manure for each 
square rod of ground and have it dumped on or 
near where the beds are to be made. With a 
spading fork, beginning at one end of the bed, 
spade a furrow across the bed; fill this furrow 



20 THE GARDENETTE 

nearly full of manure, tramp down firm; then 
spade another furrow, throwing the dirt over the 
manure thus tramped into this first furrow. Fill 
the second furrow with manure as before, and 
again throw the dirt upon this from the next line 
of spading, thus alternately filling furrow and 
spading, proceed until the entire bed is spaded. 
If this bed is made in autumn, use more straw, 
leaves or litter mixed with the manure. Then 
cover the entire surface with street scrapings or 
compost, as before described, and rake smooth. 

After the first year with the Sandwich Beds 
there will be an abundance of compost, as all the 
body of the bed will be turned into compost of the 
finest quality. 

There should be a generous supply of this com- 
post on hand at all times, as it will be found very 
valuable for enriching flower beds, etc. It is also 
just what is needed for potting plants, and filling 
flats for starting early plants. 

It usually happens that street scrapings can 
be had at a small cost if a convenient place for 
unloading is arranged, as it often saves a long 
haul to a public dump. And a modest tip to the 
driver will help. The real value of this material 
is not generally understood or appreciated. 

TOOLS AND APPLIANCES 

A steel garden rake, spading fork, small gar- 
den trowel, a long handled shovel, a manure fork, 
and a small hand sprayer are about all the tools 
that need be purchased. 

The author uses a small hand sprayer which is 
cheap and very satisfactory. It has a quart 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 21 

Mason glass jar for a reservoir, and has the ad- 
vantage of blowing the spray at right angles 
from the barrel of the machine. With it the 
under side of leaves can be effectually reached, 
and this is often essential to success. The bar- 
rel should be of brass, as many spraying com- 
pounds are corrosive on iron. With this little 
machine, and a supply of Bordeaux Mixture, Hel- 
lebore, Tobacco Extract or Tea, Paris Green, 
Aphine, etc., the careful gardener is well forti- 
fied against attacks of insects and fungi. All 
these poisons should be supplied in advance, so 
as to be ready at a moment's notice, as delays are 
often costly. As some of the above articles are 
very poisonous, it is wise to keep them in a box, 
and under lock and key. The box should be large 
enough to contain all the needed poisons and the 
little sprayer. Directions for use will be found 
under appropriate heads. 

In addition to the tools mentioned above, a 
"float" is very convenient. This is a board one- 
half inch thick, four inches wide, and ten inches 
long. A piece of broom handle, eight inches long, 
is firmly nailed to the center of the board, using 
at least four long, slim nails. This implement is 
used to make the surface of the bed smooth, like- 
wise for firming the soil after the seeds are cov- 
ered. The edge of the float may be used to mark 
off rows and for covering the seeds. 

BOARD FRAMES 

After the beds are made, the use of frames is 
desirable. These are made of common fencing 
boards, six inches wide. The frames should be 



22 THE GARDENETTE 

at least four in number, each twelve feet long and 
six feet wide. For convenience, these should be 
lightly nailed together, but not nailed so firmly 
as to prevent their being " knocked down" for 
winter storing. 

Before planting, the frames are placed in cor- 
rect position on top of the beds. A board six 
inches wide and four feet long should be provided, 
on which to kneel while planting seeds or trans- 
planting small plants. In planting either seeds 
or transplanting small plants, begin at one end of 
the bed, and as planting proceeds, move back- 
wards until the bed is completed. 

The beds may be of any suitable length, and 
may extend in any direction, but the width should 
be uniform, and should be constructed a foot 
wider than the frames. There should be a walk 
on both sides of the bed, at least two feet wide, 
for convenience in planting, watering, and gath- 
ering the crop. 

MUSLIN SCREENS 

For protecting early plants from frost, and for 
giving shade to newly set plants, a half dozen 
muslin screens should be provided. 

These are made of inch slats, six and one-half 
feet long, and exactly three feet wide, with a cross 
slat in the middle. Cover the frame with muslin 
a yard wide, of a quality costing about six cents 
per yard. Begin at one end, using small tacks, 
stretching the muslin pretty tight. Do not cut 
in single lengths, but stretch the cloth over the 
end, and tack it on both sides. This gives a dead 
air space between the muslin covers. These 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 23 

screens are light, cheap, and are nearly, if not 
quite, as good as glazed sash, at less than one- 
fourth the cost, and no breakage of glass. 

The screens are also useful in giving partial 
shade to such succulent plants as radishes, let- 
tuce, endive and celery. By protecting these from 
the heat of the burning sun, greater crispness 
and brittleness is secured. Used in this way the 
frames should be supported on stakes two feet 
above the plants. If hard frosts threaten, first 
spread old newspapers over the tender plants, 
then place the screens on the board frames, and 
old rugs or carpets may be placed over all. In 
this way, early plants may be safely carried 
through pretty hard freezing without injury. 

GROUP PLANTING 

It does not seem desirable to have to be en- 
gaged in planting continuously. And it so hap- 
pens that there are a number of different kinds 
of plants that do equally well when planted at the 
same time, so these have been assembled into 
groups, and all the work necessary for each group 
may be done at the same time. 

It will be noticed that in the " First Planting" 
there are peas, radishes, beets, lettuce, and on- 
ions. These are semi-hardy, and should be 
planted early. The plan given need not be rig- 
idly followed, for no two families are exactly the 
same in their likings. Greater or less quantities 
of each may be planted, or such things as are not 
wanted may be omitted entirely. The plans are 
merely suggestive, and may be varied to suit the 
taste of the planter. 



24 THE GARDENETTE 

The varieties, of course, may also be changed. 
Those named have been found satisfactory, but 
others may do equally well. These are given as 
an aid in selecting the seeds that will be needed. 
Order your seeds early, and buy only of reliable 
seedsmen. 

If the available space is very limited, or if the 
planter has not time to grow plants that may be 
needed for transplanting, such as cabbage, to- 
mato, cauliflower, celery, egg plants, etc., it is 
usually cheaper to buy them of a reliable grower. 
In this case the plants should be ordered in ad- 
vance, to be delivered at the proper date, which 
the grower understands. When the plants are 
received, they should be set out promptly, select- 
ing the evening, if possible, for the work. By 
shading the plants for a few days after being set 
out, there will be few failures. When transplant- 
ing, dip the roots in a puddle made of clay and 
water, about the consistency of cream, and in set- 
ting, press the soil very firm around the roots. 

After the plants are established, remove the 
screens, or the plants will blanch and become ten- 
der. Always order a few more plants than are 
needed to fill the space allotted. Set the surplus 
plants in rich soil : water and shade them. These 
can be used later to refill vacant places, for acci- 
dents, cut-worms and other enemies are pretty 
sure to destroy occasional plants, and vacant 
places in the garden are unsightly. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 25 

QUICK GERMINATION 

The best success in growing plants from seeds 
depends in a large measure upon quick and per- 
fect germination, or "sprouting." 

Seeds of plants are, primarily, germs, intended 
to produce young plants of the same genus. Be- 
sides the germ, the seed also consists of a packet 
of Baby Plant Food, containing exactly the ele- 
ments necessary to furnish the nourishment 
needed to support the tiny plant until such time 
as will enable it to develop roots and leaves, so 
that it may be able to absorb and assimilate from 
the soil its own food, through natural means pro- 
vided for this purpose. If germination is de- 
layed or much retarded by unfavorable condi- 
tions, there is danger that this supply of food, 
contained in the seed, will be spoiled by fermen- 
tation or decay, and the helpless little plant will 
be starved. Even if the plant survives, it re- 
mains a stunted weakling that rarely ever recov- 
ers its normal vigor and vitality. 

Who has not seen a corn field in exactly this 
condition, when germination has occupied two or 
three weeks? Nine times out of ten this spells 
crop failure. Try to secure quick germination: 
the quicker the better. The necessary conditions 
are fertility, warmth, moisture and aeration of 
the roots. In all these respects the Sandwich 
Beds supply ideal conditions. 

Early in the season there is often a lack of sun- 
shine and warmth, and, therefore, there is more 
or less trouble with seeds rotting. Nearly all of 
this can be easily avoided by sprouting the seeds 



26 THE GARDENETTE 

before planting. If the seeds are really worth- 
less, the fact is discovered in time to secure a 
fresh supply. Plants started by sprouting pos- 
sess more vigor, are more sturdy and thrifty, and 
will thrive and do well when poor, sickly plants 
would utterly fail. The author uses a home- 
made machine for sprouting that does the work 
admirably. 

THE PLANT INCUBATOE 

This is especially useful when early plants can- 
not be easily obtained from regular growers, or 
when special varieties are wanted, and the plants 
must be grown at home. 

The author usually has one to three of these 
machines in constant use from March to May, for 
in the latitude of central Ohio, frosts and cold 
nights make it difficult to grow good early plants. 

With this machine, fine early plants may be had 
in abundance and great variety, at a small cost. 
With it in the South, plants may be grown all 
winter, and be ready to transplant at any time de- 
sired, regardless of " northers" or sudden cold 
snaps. 

The machines are heated with common kero- 
sine lamps at a cost, on an average, of two cents 
for each twenty-four hours. Usually very little 
fire will be needed, except during cloudy, cold and 
windy days, and chilly nights, and by simply 
lighting the lamps, the plants can be safely car- 
ried over spells of unfavorable weather. 

The Plant Incubator consists of a cubical box, 
two feet each way, with a roomy door in one side. 
This box forms the lamp chamber. The top is 




Q 
W 
> 

O 

w 

PC 
PC 

w 
> 

O 

u 

PC 

o 
o 

o 

h 
pi 

o 
o 

H 
< 

U 




.- "«1 %'* •••'!->' 'V-jiMiiL, JS.71 



" .As 



m 







VEGETABLE GARDENING 27 

open. A piece of sheet iron as wide as the in- 
side of the box and four inches longer, has two 
inches turned up at right angles at each end. 
This is tacked to the inside of the box so that it 
will be held in place, two inches below the top of 
the box. The sheet iron receives and distributes 
the heat from the lamp beneath. The lamp 
should be so placed that the top of the chimney 
is four inches below the sheet iron. Cleats are 
nailed on the outside of the box above the door, 
and on the outside opposite, to support the air 
chamber, which is made of two boards six feet 
long and six inches wide, boarded over the ends 
and bottom, except where it is slipped over the 
top of the lamp chamber. This should fit snugly 
so that there will be no waste of heat. It is best 
to line the entire inside of both the lamp chamber 
and the hot air chamber with cheap asbestos 
paper, pasting it on with common flour paste. A 
small hole must be provided near the bottom of 
the lamp chamber for ingress of fresh air, or the 
lamp will not burn well. Three " flats" or shal- 
low boxes, five inches deep, twenty-four inches 
wide and twenty-six inches long, will fonn the 
cover for the hot air chamber. Fill the flats with 
rich compost mixed with fine sand, and as soon 
as the soil becomes mildly warm, it is ready to 
receive the seed. The lamp heats the diaphragm 
of sheet iron, this in turn imparts its warmth to 
the hot air chamber and then heats the soil in the 
flats above. The flats should contain three 
inches of soil. In this the plants will thrive won- 
derfully. 

Each flat will grow 150 plants. After the 



28 THE GAEDENETTE 

plants are about two inches high, the author usu- 
ally prepares three more flats which are placed 
next to the hot air chamber, and the ones con- 
taining the plants are placed on top of the new 
ones, thus one machine will heat six flats, which 
will grow 900 plants. During mild, sunny days, 
the upper flats are removed to a sheltered place 
through the day, and are returned to their posi- 
tion above the later plantings at night. A frame 
of twelve-inch boards fits outside the flats, and a 
cover of double muslin screens protects the plants 
during the night, or on cold, stormy days. The 
machine may be placed in a warm room by a win- 
dow, in an unused room, on a sheltered veranda, 
or, after cold weather is over, it may be placed 
in the garden, or out of doors anywhere. 

The hot air chamber furnishes ideal conditions 
for sprouting seeds in effecting quick germina- 
tion. 

SPROUTING SEEDS 

Procure pieces of common burlap, each twelve 
by twenty-four inches. Pour the seeds on one 
end : fold the burlap from both sides : roll up and 
fasten with a pin. Prepare a label giving name, 
date, etc. Then into a pan containing half a pint 
of warm but not hot water, drop three or four 
drops of spirits of camphor. Now place the roll 
containing the seeds in this water for twenty min- 
utes. Press out lightly so there will be no drip- 
ping; wrap in four or five thicknesses of old 
newspaper, and place where the temperature is 
regular and about seventy-five degrees. The hot 
air chamber furnishes exactly these conditions. 



VEGETABLE GAKDENING 29 

Examine the seeds daily, and if dry, water with 
lukewarm water. As soon as the germ shows, 
plant at once, or there is danger of losing the 
seed. With most of seeds there will be a gain of 
six to twelve days in time, and the seedlings will 
possess surpassing vigor. A fair trial will con- 
vince any one of the great merits of this method. 

TRANSPLANTING 

Tomatoes, cabbage, egg plant, cauliflower, cel- 
ery and peppers are much more satisfactory if 
transplanted once or twice. They should be first 
transplanted when they have formed four leaves. 
Prepare a flat by filling in at least three inches 
of fine compost with enough soil to give it body. 
Pick out the plants and set pretty deep and firm 
in rows two inches apart, and two inches apart 
in the row. By using flats twenty-four by twen- 
ty-six inches, 150 plants will just fill a flat. 

After planting, water well, and place in the 
Plant Incubator with flats sown with fresh seeds 
placed beneath them. This will usually make 
them warm enough for healthy growth. A small 
muslin screen for cover will help. 

When the plants are four inches high, they 
should be again transplanted to small pots or old 
strawberry baskets, one plant to each, and set 
closely in flats which contain an inch of sand, or 
else if you have it, set them in a cold frame or 
pit. This, of course, is some trouble, but the 
greatly increased stockiness and sturdiness of the 
plants so secured will richly repay the extra 
labor. For extra early crops of tomatoes, egg 
plant, cauliflower and peppers, the plants may be 



30 THE GARDENETTE 

eight to twelve inches high when set out in the 
open ground. With some protection as given by 
the " boosters" plants will thrive and come to 
maturity greatly in advance of plants which have 
not been transplanted. 

In transplanting to the open ground it is best 
to plant basket and all, after slightly crushing the 
bottom, just as the plant is placed in position. 
Give each plant a quart of water, and rake in some 
fine dirt to prevent the formation of a crust. 
Then by covering with a booster, the plant will 
start to grow at once. If the weather is very 
hot at the time of transplanting, turn the booster 
so that the glass will be on the north side. Two 
days later place the booster so that the glass faces 
the sun at ten o'clock, and ventilate by removing 
the cap during the heat of the day. In mild 
weather the cap may be left off altogether. 

In the absence of boosters, a double thickness 
of newspaper, coiled in a conical shape and held 
in place by earth placed on the edges, will serve 
very well. The paper may be left on during cold, 
windy weather, but must not remain too long, or 
the plant will become blanched and weakened. 
The paper can be held in shape by using small 
nails as pins. 

THE PLANT FORCER OR BOOSTER 

With many kinds of vegetables, earliness is of 
prime importance. Extra early tomatoes usu- 
ally bring a much higher price than those that 
ripen a few days or a week later. The same is 
true of slicing cucumbers, sweet corn, muskmel- 



VEGETABLE GAEDENING 31 

ons, etc. By use of the Plant Incubator and pots, 
paper bands or old strawberry baskets for indi- 
vidual plants, there can be a decided gain in the 
time required to get the plants ready for setting 
out in the open ground. But cold nights and 
cold winds, especially in cloudy weather, prevent 
anything like satisfactoiy growth after the plants 
are placed out of doors. The use of boosters at 
this time will be found a great help, as they pro- 
tect the tender plants from cold winds and even 
from frosts, as the soil around the roots of the 
plants within the booster is several degrees 
warmer than that outside. By raking up the soil 
around the booster, additional protection is given. 
If hard frosts threaten, cover the plant, booster 
and all, with double thickness of newspaper, held 
down by dirt, the top of the paper held tight to- 
gether with small nails or pins. 

Protected in this manner, plants will not suffer 
even if the temperature goes down several degrees 
below freezing. Early sugar corn, tomatoes, cu- 
cumbers, muskmelons, very early cabbage and egg 
plant are greatly advanced by this means. Even 
Lima beans and watermelons may be advanced 
ten days by the use of the boosters. 

The boosters are made of Flintkote or similar 
roofing. Two-ply will answer, though it will be 
found advantageous in the long run to use the 
heavier grade. This material does not warp or 
rot. It has stood the test for four seasons and 
looks as though it would last for four years more. 
When the season is over, the sheets may be un- 
hooked, spread out flat, and stored in a small 



32 THE GARDENETTE 

space. They are really needed for only a month 
or two, and should not be allowed to lie around 
in the way, all summer. 

HOW TO MAKE THE BOOSTERS 

Flintkote roofing comes in rolls or sheets thir- 
ty-six inches wide, and thirty-six feet long. This 
allows exactly four strips, nine inches wide, to 
be cut as shown in the drawing. The long edge 
or bottom of the booster is twenty-four inches, 
and the short edge is fourteen inches. By revers- 
ing each time, and cutting as shown, there will 
be little or no waste of material. A single sheet 
will make seventy-six boosters, caps and all, 
when the glass used are eight by ten inches. For 
larger plants, cut the roofing into three strips 
twelve inches wide, twenty-six and sixteen inches 
on either edge, and use glass ten by fourteen 
inches. For very large single plants, or for forc- 
ing rhubarb, asparagus, and large plants, the ma- 
terial may be cut eighteen inches wide, thirty and 
twenty inches long, and glass twelve by twenty 
should be used. 

The caps are of same material, and are cut in 
the shape of a letter D, and should be one inch 
greater in diameter than the top of the booster. 
The sides of the cap are bent down so that they 
will readily slide between the wire handles. The 
hooks are made of No. 11 wire, and should be 
nearly an inch longer than the width of the pane 
of glass used, so that the glass may slide easily 
into position. A small wooden wedge pressed 
between the wire and the glass will hold them se- 
curely in place. The bail or handle is also made 



VEGETABLE GABDENING 33 

of the same size wire, and serves to carry the 
booster from place to place, and hold the cap in 
position. It will be found convenient in punch- 
ing the holes for the handle and hooks, to first 
make a pattern and then, by placing a dozen or 
more sheets of the roofing in a pile, perforate the 
whole lot at one operation. This insures uniform- 
ity, which is important, as all the parts are then 
interchangeable. 

The odor of the tar or asphalt which attaches 
to nearly all kinds of roofing, does not seem to be 
harmful to the plants. 

USING THE BOOSTERS 

Early cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce are 
nearly hardy, and need protection but for about 
two weeks. They should be "hardened" by leav- 
ing off the caps for a week ; then the booster may 
be taken away and used on other plants, such as 
tomato and egg plants. But even with these ten- 
der plants they should not be left on too long. 
Usually the caps are first removed, and if the 
weather is suitable, the entire protection taken 
away before the plants become drawn. 

For cucumbers, melons and squashes, the 
boosters furnish excellent protection against the 
striped beetle. By use of tobacco dust, and moth 
balls, it is easy to head off these destroyers, as 
the odors are more powerful and lasting inside 
the machine. To keep out the bugs when the caps 
are removed, substitute a cap made of fly-screen 
wire. 

In using the booster, be sure to keep soil well 
raked up around the machine. 



34 THE GARDENETTE 



THE POST HOLE METHOD 

FOR 

GROWING MELONS, CUCUMBERS AND SQUASHES 

The essentials for growing these vines and 
fruits in perfection are — 

Fertility in available form, 

Moisture, without "sogginess," 

Sand! 

While all of these vines delight in a sandy soil, 
both kinds of melons will only reach their greatest 
perfection in size and flavor where there is much 
sand in the soil. It is sand that makes southern 
Indiana and Georgia famous for their melons. 

The Post Hole Method is adapted to growing 
these luscious vegetables in limited areas, for a 
few hills can be made in odd corners and out-of- 
the-way places, the only natural condition neces- 
sary being that of plenty of sunshine. The soil 
is neither plowed nor spaded. 

Preparation of the Hills 

Dig a hole the size of a wash tub and about ten 
inches deep. In the bottom of this hole, and in 
the center of it, dig, with a common post auger, 
or a narrow spade, a hole two feet deep and ten 
inches in diameter. Fill the post-hole with coarse 
stable litter avoiding sawdust, and pack this 
down pretty firm. Fill the entire excavation with 
a compost made up of two parts sand, one part 
fine, well rotted manure, and one part good gar- 
den soil. Mix thoroughly by shoveling over sev- 
eral times. In finishing the filling, preserve the 
bowl-like depression toward the center. When 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 35 

completed the hill should be about eighteen inches 
in diameter, and six or eight inches above the 
level. Several days before planting, pour into 
the depression, six to ten gallons of water to fur- 
nish a store of moisture. When the soil is again 
dry enough to ' ' work, ' ' the hill is ready for plant- 
ing. 

Select the choicest varieties and buy the best 
seed obtainable. Plant ten seeds in a hill, and 
cover two inches deep. Nearly a week can be 
gained with this kind of plants by sprouting the 
seed as described in "Quick Germination." 

For the striped bug or beetle, place two or three 
moth balls in the hill when the plants first break 
through the ground; or sprinkle tobacco dust, a 
handful to the hill, on the soil before the plants 
are up ; or a lure may be planted, say two feet dis- 
tant, in a circular furrow, using any cheap musk- 
melon, squash or cucumber seed, but use no to- 
bacco on these. Permit the bugs to feast on the 
lure, which they will do to avoid the tobacco on 
the good plants. Kerosene, or common coal oil, 
mixed with lime or ashes and sprinkled over the 
hills, often helps. 

For leaf blight in muskmelons, prevention is 
easier than cure. Get a pound each of sulphur 
and dry air-slaked lime. Mix thoroughly, and 
sow around the hill for three or four feet, on top 
of the ground, after the planting is done. This 
amount will be enough for a dozen hills. This is 
intended to destroy the spores of the fungus that 
cause leaf blight. Repeat after the plants are 
up, dusting the hill thoroughly. Or spray with 
Bordeaux Mixture, somewhat diluted with water. 



36 THE GARDENETTE 

Spraying should begin when plants are four 
inches high, and should be repeated every ten 
days. 

Hills of melons, cucumbers and squashes should 
be placed at least six feet apart. If droughts oc- 
cur, the hills may easily be watered by pouring 
water into the bowl-like depression, but before 
pouring the water, make several holes with a 
small stick down through the top soil, into the 
litter below. After heavy rains the same prod- 
ding should be done to prevent drowning of 
plants. 

Managed in this way the yield of a few hills is 
enormous. The same treatment, outlined above 
for muskmelons, omitting the lime and sulphur, 
is given to squashes, cucumbers, and pumpkins. 

For "melon wilt" pour a bucketful of fine 
manure and road dust, mixed together, directly 
on the hill, completely covering the roots of the 
plants. Do this when vines are about two feet 
long. It is believed that the wilt is caused by 
sun scald of the stems near the roots. Covering 
these, in time, usually checks or entirely prevents 
this destructive disease. 

SUCCESSION TO FIEST PLANTING 

By the middle of May or a little earlier, tomato 
plants for early fruiting should be set. Usually 
the "First Planting" is out of the way or nearly 
matured, so that the same plot or bed may be set 
in early tomato plants, as marked by T in the 
diagram, regardless of the vegetables yet occu- 
pying the ground. By the time that the tomatoes 
get a good start, all the vegetables of the first 



HOOKS 




BAIL OR HANDLE 




PATTERN 

FOR 
8XIO GLASS 




/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 




/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 




\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 




\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


, 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 


/ 


\ 



TO CUT ROOFING WITHOUT WASTE 

DETAILS OP PLANT FORCER OR BOOSTER. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 37 

planting will be gone, unless it be the onions, and 
these will not remain long enough to do any harm. 
When the earlier vegetables are finally re- 
moved, rake the soil mellow, and mulch the to- 
mato plants with litter or coarse manure, cover- 
ing the whole bed four inches deep. This will 
conserve the moisture, and greatly improve the 
fruit in both quality and quantity. Twenty-seven 
plants are required to fill space as in diagram. 
Better order three dozen plants, and "heel out" 
the surplus for replacing. Varieties for this 
planting: Field's Early June, Earliana, Globe, 
Ponderosa. Other varieties that are good are 
Livingston's Stone, Bonny Best, Favorite, and 
Marketeer. For directions in growing extra 
early tomatoes, staking, mulching, and general 
cultural directions, see page 72. 

The following ten pages show practical dia- 
grams and complete detail directions for plant- 
ing vegetables correctly. 



38 



THE GAEDENETTE 



, . Peas . . 

. . Peas . . 

Radishes 

Radishes 

. . Peas . . 

. . Peas . . 

. Beets . 
Beets . 

. . Peas . . 

. . Peas . . 
Lettuce 
Lettuce 

. . Peas . . 

. . Peas . . 
Lettuce 
Lettuce 

. . Peas . . 

. . Peas . . 



Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 
Onion 



(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
( Sets ) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 
(Sets) 



6 feet 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 39 

Date of planting: as early in spring as ground is dry enough 
to work — usually about March 25 to April 10. 

This is written for latitude of Columbus, Ohio. Localities of 
100 miles northward will be ten days later: same distance south- 
ward, ten days earlier. For 200 miles north or south, allow fif- 
teen to twenty days; allowance should be made for elevation and 
local conditions also. The plants named are all hardy enough 
to withstand considerable frosts. 

Peas. Varieties: Early Alaska, Little Gem, Gradus. 

Quantity of Seed: E. Alaska one-half pint; Little Gem one- 
half pint; Gradus one pint. 
Distances: Apart in rows, two inches; Rows apart, twelve 

inches. 
Depth: Two inches. 
All these varieties require brush two feet in height. 

Radishes. Varieties: Icicle, Scarlet Turnip, Scarlet White Tip. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 
Distances: Rows apart, twelve inches; Apart in rows, three 

inches. 
Depth: One inch. 

Beets. Varieties: Eclipse, Ex. Early Egyptian, Early Blood 

Turnip. 
Distances: Apart in rows, four inches; Rows apart, twelve 

inches. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 

Lettuce. Varieties: Grand Rapids, Black Seeded Simpson, Big 
Boston. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, three inches; Rows apart, twelve 

inches. 
Depth: One-half inch. 
If transplanted, set plants six inches apart each way. 

Onions (Sets). Varieties: White, Red, Yellow. 

Distances: Apart in rows, two inches; Rows apart, six inches. 

Depth: Two to three inches. When fit to pull, remove two 
and leave one. Remove all of alternate rows; the re- 
mainder may mature for winter storing. 

Quantity of Seed: One quart of each variety. Onion sets 
should be about size of end of small finger. If much 
larger they are apt to go to seed: if much smaller they 
lack vigor. 



THE GARDENETTE 

• X X . . . Cabbage ... X X . 

■ X X . . . Cabbage ... X X . 

• X X... Cabbage ...X X. 

• X X.. Cauliflower ..X X. 

.X X.. Cauliflower ..X X. 

• X X.. Cauliflower ..X X. 

Carrots 

Carrots 

Carrots 

Parsnips 

Parsnips 

Parsnips 

Salsify 

Salsify 

Salsify 

Cbard 

Chard 



6 feet 



VEGETABLE GABDEN1NG 41 

Date: About April 10 to 20, or about two weeks after time of 
First Planting. 

As these are principally root crops, it is desirable that the soil 
be spaded before construction of bed. The trenching method will 
give excellent results. 

Where only a few cabbage and cauliflower plants are desired, 
it is cheaper to buy the plants of a reliable grower. 

Cabbage. Varieties: Early Jersey Wakefield, Late Flat Dutch. 
Number of Plants: One dozen of each variety. 
Distances: Eighteen inches each way. Remove outer leaves. 
Set deep. Shade for a week. Heel surplus plants in 
shady place, and use later to fill vacancies. 

Caulifloweb. Varieties: Early Snowball, Danish Perfection. 
Number of Plants: One dozen of each variety. 
Distances: Eighteen inches each way. Remove outer leaves 

and set deep; shade for a week. Heel extra plants to 

fill vacancies. 

Cabbots. Varieties: Chantenay, Early Danvera. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each. 
Distances: Apart in rows, four inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

Pabsnips. Varieties: Hollow Crown. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet. 
Distances: Apart in rows, four inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

Salsify. Varieties: Mammoth Sandwich Islands. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet. 
Distances: Apart in rows, three inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: One inch. 

Sprout seeds of carrots, parsnips and salsify by use of wet 
burlap cloths. Ten days required for germination. Plant when 
germ first shows. Parsnips improve by being left in ground till 
needed in spring. Salsify may be dug as used. It is improved 
by light frosts. When dug store in sand in cellar. Chard: Va- 
rieties, Lucullus. Plant same as beets. Leaves are used as spin- 
ach: the stems are prepared like asparagus. 



THE GAEDENETTE 

Parsley 

Parsley 

Peas 

Peas 

Spinach 

Spinach 

' Peas 

Peas 

Spinach 

Spinach 

Peas 

Peas 

Lettuce 

Lettuce 

E. Ohio Potatoes .... 

Early Corn 

E. Ohio Potatoes .... 

Golden Bantam Corn . 

E. Ohio Potatoes . . . . 

Country Gent. Corn . . . 

Irish Cobbler Potatoes . 

Country Gent. Corn . . . 

Irish Cobbler Potatoes . 

Country Gent. Corn . . . 

Irish Cobbler Potatoes . 



6 feet. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 43 

Date, April 25 to May 5 or about ten days after "Second Plant- 
ing." For succession, peas, lettuce and radishes may be now 
planted. Beds may be by "Sandwich" System, or by the trench 
method. 

Parsley. Varieties: Moss Curled. 
Quantity of Heed: One packet. 

Distances : Apart in rows, four inches: rows apart, one foot. 
Depth: Half an inch. 

Seed should be sprouted by use of wet burlap cloths. 
Germination will require about two weeks' time. Plant seed 
quickly when germ first shows. 

Peas for Succession. Varieties: Gradus, Telephone. 
Quantity of Seed: Half pint of each variety. 

Spinach. Varieties: Curled Savoy, Victoria. 

Quantity of seed: Half ounce of each variety. 

Distances: Apart in rows, three inches. Rows apart, one 

foot. 
Depth,: One inch. Sow seeds one inch apart: thin when up. 

Lettuce for Succession. See Lettuce in "First Planting." 

Potatoes. Varieties: E. Ohio, Irish Cobbler. 

Quantity of Seed: One-fourth peck of each variety. 

Distances: Apart in rows, one foot: rows apart, two feet. 

Depth: Four inches. Select medium sized potatoes for seed. 
Cut in halves lengthwise. Start these in sand in shallow 
boxes, by placing in cellar or moderately warm room 
four weeks before planting. Sprouts should be about 
one inch above ground when planted out. By this 
method two weeks' time is gained. 

Sugar Corn. Varieties: Golden Bantam, Early Cory. 
Quantity of Seed: One packet of each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, two inches: rows apart, two feet. 
Depth: Two inches. When three inches high thin to eight 

inches apart in row. The potatoes are usually dug and 

out of way in time for corn to mature. 



THE GARDENETTE 

.X X.. Egg Plant ..X X. 

.X X.. Egg Plant ..X X. 

.X X.. Egg Plant ..X X. 

.0 Okra O O. 

.0 O Okra O 0. 

.0 O Okra O O. 

Bush Tender Pod Beans 

Bush Tender Pod Beans 

Bush Tender Pod Beans 

Bush Tender Pod Beans 

Bush Tender Pod Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 

Bush Lima Beans 



6 feet. 




m 2 



I — 1 _c 

o ~ 



C/3 .e 

O - 
c/3 p 






J .S 



< ° 




u 



VEGETABLE GAEDENING 45 

Use either "Sandwich" or "Trenching" System. 

Egg Plant. Varieties: Black Beauty, Mammoth Purple. 
Distances: Eighteen inches each way. 

Set rather deep and firm. 
Number Plants: One dozen. 

Okba. Varieties: White Velvet, Perkins Mammoth. 
Quantity of Seed: Half ounce each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, four inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: Two inches. 
When plants are three inches high, thin to one foot apart. 

Beans, Tender Pod Bush. 

Varieties: Hardy Wax, Yellow Pencil Pod. 
Quantity of Heed: Half pint each variety. 
Distances: Apart in rows, three inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: Two inches. 

Lima Beans, Bush. 

Varieties: Burpee's Impd., Fordhook. 

Quantity of Heed: Half pint of each variety. 

Distances: Apart in rows, two inches: rows apart, eighteen 

inches. 
Depth: One and one-half inches. 

If Lima beans are planted with the eye downward they 

will germinate sooner. The beans should be pressed 

firmly in place before covering. 



46 



THE GAEDENETTE 



Peas 

Peas T T. 

Radish 

Radish 

Peas T T. 

. Peas 

Beets 

Beets T T. 

. Peas 

. Peas 

Lettuce T T. 

Lettuce 

. Peas 

Peas T T. 

Lettuce 

Lettuce 

Peas T T. 

. Peas 

Onions 

Onions T T . 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions T T. 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions T T . 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions 

Onions T T. 



6 feet. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 47 

Date: May 10 to 25. 
Varieties: Stone, E. June, Ponderosa, Earliana. Other good va- 
rieties Acme, Globe, Favorite, Bonny Best. It is usually 
cheaper to buy plants from a reliable seedsman, where only 
a few dozen are needed. Plants should be stocky, and six 
to ten inches high. 

Number of Plants: To fill bed of "First Planting" will require 
twenty-seven plants — see Plat on preceding page. Order 
three dozen plants, and heel out the surplus for filling va- 
cancies. 

Water and shade for a few days. If frosts threaten, bend the 
plants down gently and cover with earth three inches deep. Un- 
cover when danger of frost is over. 

If plants are very long and slender, dig a trench three inches 
deep in any direction from where plant is to stand. Plant roots 
in trench, then bend down the stalk and cover with soil so that 
four inches of the top will come to the point where plant is to 
stand. It will take root where covered, and thus gain increased 
vigor. 

When ''First Planting" of vegetables are matured, remove and 
rake the soil mellow. 

When plants are a foot high, set a stake six feet high, firmly 
by each plant, and as plant grows tie loosely to stake. Prune by 
removing slender, weak shoots. When plant reaches top of stake, 
top by pinching out terminal bud. Tomato plants are set where 
indicated by T in plan, "First Planting" is allowed to remain 
until matured. 



SPECIAL CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

ASPARAGUS 

TO grow asparagus successfully, the soil needs 
to be rich, light and deep. 

Spade the bed as directed in the "Modified 
Sandwich" bed, only the soil should be stirred to 
a depth of full eighteen inches. Use old, well 
rotted manure, with an equal amount of sand. 

Plant in rows lengthwise, and make three rows 
on a six-foot bed : one in the middle, and one on 
each side, a foot from the edge. 

The plants may be grown from seed, but if two- 
year-old plants are used, there will be a saving of 
at least two years' time. 

Most of nursery men and seedsmen sell aspara- 
gus plants. Care must be taken that the roots do 
not become dry, or they are almost sure to die. 

Procure plants about April 20, and plant quickly. 
Set one foot apart in row, and not less than eight 
inches deep, the tops or crowns about six inches 
below the surface. 

Two dozen plants will supply a family. These 
will occupy a bed six by eight feet, and will con- 
tinue to produce for many years without replant- 
ing, but will need a generous top dressing of rich 
manure each fall after frosts. Also sow a pint of 
common salt, in autumn, to a bed of this size. No 
part of the garden is more profitable than the as- 
paragus bed. 

48 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 49 

Conover's Colossal, and Mammoth White are 
good varieties. 

BEANS, DWARF OR BUSH — TENDER PODS 

These succeed admirably on Sandwich Beds. 
All beans are very tender and should not be 
planted until the ground becomes warm. Begin 
planting early in May, and for succession plant 
every two weeks until middle of August. Plant in 
rows eighteen inches apart, and three inches in 
the row. Cover two inches deep. 

Livingston's Hardy Wax, and Wardwell's Wax 
are good varieties. One quart will plant 100 feet 
of row. 

For green pods, Stringless Refugee is excel- 
lent. 

BEANS, POLE OR CLIMBING TENDER PODS 

These should be planted about two weeks later 
than bush beans. Form hills three feet apart east 
and west, by four feet, north and south. Plant 
four beans in a hill, cover two inches deep, leaving 
space in center of hill for pole. Or plant two 
grains of sugar corn in each hill to support the 
vines. 

One quart will plant 100 hills. 

Kentucky Wonder for early ; Old Homestead for 
main crop. 

LIMA BUSH 

These are grown same as other bush beans, but 
should be planted ten days later. Plant in rows 
two feet apart, and three inches in the row. Press 
the seed into the ground with the eye downward, 



50 THE GAEDENETTE 

and cover two inches deep. Varieties, Fordhook, 
and Burpee's Improved. 

LIMA BEANS — POLE OR CLIMBING 

Plant one week later than other pole beans, in 
hills three by four feet apart, and five beans to the 
hill. Press seed in soil, eye downward, and cover 
two inches. Set poles eight feet long, firmly, one 
to each hill, and bring upper ends of four together, 
tent fashion, and tie firmly. If poles cannot be 
had, slats will answer. 

Climbing Limas are more productive than bush, 
and are less liable to spoil in wet weather. Corn 
stalks will not support the great weight of climb- 
ing Limas. 

Climbing Limas require a long season to mature, 
so do not defer planting too long or they will likely 
be caught by early frosts. Large White, and 
Dreer's Improved are good varieties. One quart 
will plant seventy-five hills. 

BEETS 

Beets are semi-hardy, and may safely be planted 
quite early. The seed should be sprouted, but 
plant when the germ first shows. Plant in rows 
one foot apart and four inches in the row. They 
will usually need thinning, as a single seed often 
produces several plants. When thinning cut off 
half of the tops, and transplant in vacancies or 
new rows. These will mature a few days later. 

For late pickling, plant seed about middle of 
May. 

One ounce of seed will plant seventy-five feet of 
row. 



VEGETABLE GABDENING 51 

Early Blood Turnip, and Early Bassano are 
good varieties. 

CABBAGE EABLY 

These do wonderfully well on plain Sandwich 
Beds or on the "Modified" Bed. 

For extra early plants, sow seed in the Incubator 
flats in March, in rows four inches apart and two 
inches in the row, sprouting the seed first. 

If the plants grow spindling, sift with hand fine 
sand between rows, until up to the seed, or primary 
leaves. This will insure fine stocky plants. 
Transplant to open ground as soon as ground is 
in good order, and when plants are five or six 
inches high. Set very deep, but do not cover the 
crown. If there conies severe cold weather, pro- 
tect with several thicknesses of newspaper. They 
will withstand considerable cold. For cabbage 
worm use Hellebore. One ounce of seed produces 
about 2000 plants. 

Early Jersey Wakefield, and Glory of Enk- 
housen are excellent varieties. Plant in rows 
eighteen inches apart each way. 

CABBAGE LATE 

Sow seed about May 20 on Sandwich Beds in 
open ground. Sprout the seed, water well with 
hose, and shade with screens for several days, but 
not too long or the plants will be spindling. For 
cabbage fly dust with powdered tobacco leaves, 
wood ashes, or slaked lime before the plants are 
destroyed. Transplant about June 15 to rows 
two feet apart and eighteen inches in row. Set 



52 THE GABDENETTE 

deep and when well established hill up around the 
plant slightly. 

American Savoy, and Late Flat Dutch are good 
varieties. 

CAEEOT — EARLY 

Long rooted plants do best on the Modified Bed. 
Sow seed where they are to grow, early in spring, 
in rows eighteen inches apart, and four inches in 
row. Cover half an inch deep. One ounce will 
sow 100 feet of row. 

Early Danvers, and Chantenay are good varie- 
ties. Sprout the seed before planting. 

For late carrots sow seed in May or first half of 
June. 

CAULIFLOWER 

Cauliflower is, in its nature, very similar to cab- 
bage, and can easily be grown to perfection on 
Sandwich Beds. Sow seeds in flats in Incubator 
in February or March after sprouting the seeds. 
Plant in rows three inches apart and two inches in 
row. Cover one-fourth inch. Treat like cabbage 
plants. Transplant to open ground April 1 to 15, 
and set rather deep, in rows eighteen inches apart 
both ways. Early Snowball seems to be the 
favorite variety, and is really one of the very 
best. 

Seed is usually high in price. One-fourth of an 
ounce will produce 500 plants. 

For late crops sow seed about middle of May 
in rich soil, or on Sandwich Bed, and transplant 
like late cabbage when plants are of suitable 
size. If weather is very warm, shade for a few 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 53 

days till plants are established. Cauliflower, like 
cabbage, needs frequent watering. Use same va- 
riety for late crop. 

CELERY 

This desirable vegetable is somewhat difficult 
and troublesome to grow by old methods. By the 
plan here outlined, gratifying success is, rela- 
tively, easy of achievement. Indeed the Sandwich 
Beds are perfectly ideal for celery growing. 

The author has been able to produce, with uni- 
formity, from 1000 to 1500 choice heads of fancy, 
high flavored celery for each square rod of Sand- 
wich Bed. 

Sow seed in March or first of April, in flats, 
after first sprouting the seeds, which are very 
small and usually germinate very slowly. In flats 
with the Incubator much time is gained. Sow in 
rows three inches apart, and about one quarter of 
an inch apart in rows. As many seeds will fail to 
germinate a little thicker sowing will insure a good 
stand. When plants are two inches high, pull up 
and transplant in flats, two inches apart, in rows 
which are three inches apart. Water well, and 
shade for a few days. 

About first to middle of May, or any time even 
a month later, plant in open ground in Sandwich 
Beds, setting the plants exactly five inches each 
way. 

In transplanting be careful to have the plants of 
uniform size, or the smaller and weaker ones will 
be crowded out by their more sturdy neighbors. 
Trim off at least one-third of roots and tops, and 
dip roots in "puddle" before setting. 



54 THE GAKDENETTE 

"Puddle" is a thin mixture of clay and water, 
and should be about the consistency of cream. 

Press soil very firmly about roots, then water 
freely, and shade with muslin screens for a few 
days. If any plants fail to grow, put in fresh ones, 
so there are no vacancies. 

Water frequently and somewhat copiously. 
This is best done in the evening. 

To stimulate growth, apply in dry state, nitrate 
of soda, by sifting the pulverized crystals, with the 
hand, between the rows, but be careful to keep it 
off the foliage. Use eight heaping teaspoonfuls 
to 100 plants, and repeat about twice, at intervals 
of ten days. 

"When plants are eight to ten inches high, do 
most of the watering by permitting the hose to lie 
on the ground between rows, as too much water on 
the foliage may induce rust. 

In about six weeks from last transplanting, 
blanching may begin. 

Take cheap, one-ply roofing felt, such as Flint- 
kote, or similar material, and cut in pieces sixteen 
inches by twelve inches. Bend in cylinders which 
should be about five inches in diameter, and twelve 
inches long. With small tacks fasten the edges 
together, lapping one inch. The tacks will hold 
better if there is an inch strip of the same material 
on the inside of the cylinder, where the lap is 
tacked. Use a two-foot piece of two-inch gas pipe 
as an anvil, on which to nail, fastening one end 
firmly in a vice. Now first lay the strip on the 
gas pipe, then place the lap directly over this 
strip, the cylinder encircling the pipe, and drive 
tacks through the three thicknesses, and clinch 




GRADUS PEAS AND EARLY CABBAGE. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 55 

on gas pipe. Use about six tacks to each cylin- 
der. 

Next have your tinner make an "Enf older" of 
light, galvanized sheet iron, No. 29, as follows : 

Bend two strips of sheet-iron in form of half 
cylinders, so that when placed with concave sides 
towards each other they will form a complete cylin- 
der. The proper size of strips is five and one 
quarter inches wide, and eighteen inches long. 
These will form a tube in two parts, three and one- 
half inches in diameter. Attach light hinges by 
riveting them inside of the half tubes, in such way 
that the two halves can be easily opened or closed. 

For use, gather the leaves and stems of the 
celery in left hand, then with open cylinder in 
right hand, press the open face close against the 
plant, and as it is closed encircle the plant. Now 
drop the blanching tube over enfolding cylinder 
and all, and then withdraw the enfolding cylinder 
— and the plant is snugly placed within the blanch- 
ing cylinder. 

It is easily and quickly done. 

The blanching will usually require about eight 
to twelve days, when the celery is ready for the 
table, or it may be allowed to remain in the tubes 
until wanted. 

If weather is hot when blanching, place muslin 
screens, supported by stakes, about three feet 
above the ground, where blanchers are being used ; 
otherwise sometimes there will be sun-scald. 

After putting on blanching tubes, water only by 
allowing the nozzle of hose to lie on the ground. 
Do not spray over the celery while in tubes, though 
rain will do no harm. 



56 THE GARDENETTE 

Common drain tile will answer for tubing, but 
they are very heavy, costly, and liable to breakage. 

When tubes are made of roofing they may be 
made in two sections, telescoping together. The 
advantages of this form, however, does not pay 
for extra cost and trouble. 

About twenty-four tubes, or even a less number, 
will answer all purposes, as they are moved fur- 
ther along, and used again and again, as celery is 
cut for use. 

The same results may be secured by simply 
wrapping each plant separately with sheets of 
Flintkote or similar material. The sheets should 
encircle the plant and lap over two inches, being 
held in place by two wire rings, four or five inches 
in diameter. These are dropped over the wrap- 
pers and are held in place by the "spring" of the 
material. 

Light frosts do not hurt celery, but hard freez- 
ing will destroy it. 

It may be removed to cellar, if taken up with 
some soil adhering, and packed, not too closely, in 
upright position, in boxes, but do not wet the foli- 
age or stems after removal, or they will surely rot. 

If only a few hundred heads are needed, it is 
usually cheaper to buy the plants of a reliable 
dealer, than to grow them yourself. Order plants 
about June 10. It is desirable to have a few extra 
plants to fill vacancies. 

Golden Self Blanching is a very satisfactory va- 
riety. A single packet of seeds will produce a sur- 
prising number of plants. 

Celery is usually grown as second crop, after 
peas, lettuce, radishes, onion sets, when used 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 57 

green, etc. It may even follow early potatoes, or 
early sugar corn, but should not be transplanted 
later than July 1. 

Fine, fresh, crisp celery is certainly a luxury, 
and well worth the trouble of growing. 

For celery rust spray with Bordeaux Mixture. 
Repeat at intervals of ten days. 

EGG PLANTS 

Sprout the seed and plant in flats in March. 
Transplant to open ground last of May, setting 
plants pretty deep and firm. When well estab- 
lished hill up earth around the plants and press 
firm. Pick off the potato beetles by hand, or dust 
the plants with white hellebore or Paris Green. 

One dozen plants will supply a family. Water 
freely for best results. 

Varieties : Black Beauty, Mammoth Purple. 

ENDIVE 

Sow seed after sprouting, about middle of April, 
and when of sufficient size, transplant to rows 
twelve inches apart each way. 

It may be blanched like celery in tubes, but re- 
quires somewhat larger tubes. 

Nothing can be finer than endive when grown on 
Sandwich Beds, and blanched in this way. 

If blanching is done in very hot weather, shade 
with muslin screens on stakes two feet high. 

White Curled, and Green Curled are fine varie- 
ties. 

For succession make three sowings a month 
apart. 



58 THE GARDENETTE ' 

KOHL EABI 

Sow seed in March in flats, after sprouting. 
Transplant in rows ten inches apart each way, as 
soon as plants are of suitable size. 

They are much like cabbage in their nature, and 
are managed in similar manner. 

They must be used before full grown, as they 
will become tough with age. 

Early White Vienna is a good variety. 

CUCUMBEES 

For early slicing, the seeds should first be 
sprouted and then planted in strawberry baskets 
— about ten seeds in each basket. This may be 
done as early as April 1. Then place them in an 
incubator or other warm place till the plants form 
the fourth leaf. Then remove to a mild hot bed, 
cold frame or cold pit; and as soon as warm 
weather approaches, harden off gradually. When 
settled warm weather is assured, say about the 
middle of May or a little later, set the plants, 
basket and all, in post hole hills, five by six feet 
apart. The hills should be protected with boost- 
ers until the plants are well established. Then 
remove caps for a few days until the plants are 
hardened and finally remove all protection. 
Sometimes it is necessary to retain the boosters 
as a protection against the striped beetle. In 
such cases two or three mothballs and a handful 
of tobacco leaves placed inside the booster will 
shoo him off. If the weather is warm, place a 
screen wire cap on the top instead of the regular 
cap. This keeps off the beetle and gives ventila- 
tion. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 59 

For the "wilt" pour a peck of sandy compost 
directly on the hill when vines are about two feet 
long, thus protecting the stems or vines near the 
roots from the burning rays of the hot sun, which 
doubtless cause this trouble. This must be done 
early. The ''wilt" may be prevented, but it can- 
not be cured. Give the same treatment to melons 
and squashes. For growing pickling cucumbers, 
plant seeds from middle of June to August 1. 
About July 15 gives, perhaps, the best results. 

CELERY-CABBAGE 

This vegetable, recently introduced from China, 
resembles in flavor and odor our common cab- 
bage. In appearance, it closely resembles well- 
grown Cos lettuce, while the stems look like celery. 

It is an annual and requires cool weather to 
bring it to perfection. If planted in early spring, 
it soon sends up seed stems and ripens seeds which 
look like cabbage seed, only smaller. 

It should be sown about the middle of August, 
in seed beds, and when three inches high, trans- 
planted in rows two feet apart and eighteen inches 
apart in the row. It requires rich soil and fre- 
quent watering. The heads may be loosely tied, 
somewhat like endive, when it will blanch beauti- 
fully. It is served same as boiled cabbage. It is 
also fine when prepared as cole slaw, or as a salad 
like lettuce. It is certainly a valuable addition 
to our collection of edible garden vegetables. It 
is very subject to attacks of green aphis. To- 
bacco tea, not too strong, if applied frequently, 
will hold the enemy in check. 



60 THE GARDENETTE 

LETTUCE 

Lettuce is of two kinds; those which grow 
loosely, and those which form heads. 

For early, sow seeds in flats in March, and keep 
in Incubator until about two inches high, when 
they may be transplanted to open Sandwich Beds, 
setting plants six inches apart each way. Or the 
seed may be sown out of doors at time of "first 
planting." Rows six inches apart, and not 
closer than two inches in the row. 

For early use, cut all of alternate rows. This 
will give remainder plenty of room. 

In hot days shade with muslin screens raised 
one foot above top of plants. 

For succession, sow every three weeks until 
middle of July. The later sowings must be shaded 
to secure fine, crisp quality. 

Loose varieties : Grand Rapids, Black Seeded 
Simpson. 

Head varieties : Big Boston, Crisp-as-Ice. 

Trianon Cos, or celery lettuce, may be blanched 
like celery, when it is very fine. 

All kinds are easily transplanted. 

MELON — WATER 
{For Musk Melon, see "Cantaloupes" in "Post Hole Hills") 

Water melons should receive precisely the same 
treatment as musk melons, except that lime and 
sulphur are not needed. In preparing Post Hole 
hills do not forget that water melons delight in 
plenty of sand. 

Varieties: Water melons, Georgia Rattle- 
Snake, and Sweetheart. Musk melons, Ohio 
Sugar, Tip Top, Miller's Cream. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 61 

OKRA, OR GUMBO 

Plant seeds about middle of May, in rows eight- 
een inches apart, and four inches in row. When 
plants are three inches high, thin to one foot apart. 

White Velvet is an excellent variety. 

The pods must be used when small, while tender. 

For succession make two plantings, three weeks 
apart. 

ONION SETS 

Secure "sets" or bulblets about first of March, 
and for extra early green "pulls," start the bulbs 
in a box of sand. Put in a layer of sand, then a 
layer of bulbs, and cover with sand. Kept in a 
rather cool, dark place, they will soon form root- 
lets, when they are ready to plant. Rows may 
be six inches apart. Set the bulbs, right end up, 
or they will be crooked, and not more than two 
inches apart in rows. Plant them at least two or 
three inches below the surface. 

When large enough to pull, remove two, and 
leave one, and remove all of alternate rows : the re- 
mainder may be allowed to mature for winter 
use. 

Select bulbs for planting about size of end of 
small finger. If much smaller they are lacking in 
vigor, and are tedious to plant. If much larger 
they are apt to throw up seed stems. 

Bulbs are white, red, and yellow. The white 
are generally preferred. 

Egyptian, or winter onions, are set in Septem- 
ber, when they will furnish green "pulls" very 
early the following spring. They are perfectly 
hardy. 



62 THE GARDENETTE 

POTATOES 

Potatoes will do moderately well under almost 
any conditions, but for very best results, both in 
quality and yield, use the Modified Sandwich 
Bed. * 

I find it a very great advantage to start the 
seed potatoes before planting, by first cutting the 
potatoes in halves, and covering with sand or 
compost in a flat, placing them in a moderately 
warm room, preferably in the light, and thus per- 
mitting them to form roots, and start sprouts 
from the eyes, to a length of about half an inch 
before planting. 

Do not water while thus starting growth. The 
object is to cause the potatoes to wither and make 
only short, stubby growths. If dampened and 
kept in dark the growths will be slender, soft, and 
white, while best results are secured by encour- 
aging rather stunted growth, stocky, and of dark, 
deep color. 

When thus treated they make a very vigorous 
growth and may be planted about middle of 
April or even later, and thus avoid having the 
tops frosted, as often happens if planted very 
early. Frosted tops always lessen the yield. 

This way of starting the seed insures earliness 
in any event, and helps to avoid severe frosts. 

At least two weeks are gained by this method. 
Cut and sprout seed about March 25 to April 1. 
Plant out of doors April 12 to 20. 

Plant one piece in a hill, about twelve inches 
apart each way. Cover fully four inches deep, 
and be careful not to break off sprouts or roots. 



VEGETABLE GAKDENING 63 

Select medium sized potatoes. One peck will 
plant 100 hills. 

Early Ohio is a very satisfactory variety. 
After planting is completed, cover the entire bed 
with stable litter, at least three inches deep. 

When plants appear, pull out weaker ones, 
leaving but two stems to the hill. This thinning 
is absolutely necessary to complete success. 

Treated as above described, the author has 
grown, on a space six by twenty feet, seven meas- 
ured pecks of choice potatoes. 

PEAS 

The common belief that peas will do best on 
thin, poor soil, is not correct. They yield won- 
derfully well on Sandwich Beds, for early varie- 
ties, and on the Modified Sandwich Beds for late. 

It pays to sprout the seed before planting: the 
"stand" is more even, and several days' time is 
gained. 

Early sowings should be covered about one 
inch, but later sowings may be covered two inches. 

Plant in rows one foot apart and quite thickly 
in the row, say one seed to two inches, for not all 
of the seed will grow. 

After planting two rows, twelve inches apart, 
it is best to leave a space of three feet, then two 
rows more, and so on. The vacant space may be 
sown in radishes, lettuce, beets, or filled with 
onion sets. 

For very early, choose Early Alaska, which is 
a smooth variety. Little Gem is a dwarf, wrin- 
kled variety, and is also early. These require 
no brush. Gradus is a splendid variety, and is 



64 THE GARDENETTE 

second early. Telephone is fine for main crop. 
The last two require brush about two feet high, 
one to each foot of row. For succession plant 
every three weeks but not later than middle of 
June. Sometimes later planting will do well, but 
not often. 

PARSLEY 

Seeds of this plant germinate very slowly. 

Sprout, and sow in flats, and keep in warm In- 
cubator until plants come up. This may be done 
in March or April. 

Transplant in rows one foot apart, and four 
inches apart in row. 

Moss Curled is an excellent variety. 

PARSNIPS 

Sow on "Modified" Sandwich Beds as early in 
spring as weather will permit, first sprouting the 
seed. They germinate very slowly. 

Plant seeds in rows eighteen inches apart : four 
inches apart in row. Cover half an inch deep. 

They improve by frost, and may be left in 
ground where grown until spring. 

For winter use take up in late fall, and store 
in sand in boxes in cellar. 

Hollow Crown is an excellent variety. 

PEPPERS 

Plant seeds in flats and place in Incubator in 
March or April. Transplant last of May or first 
of June, two and one-half feet apart each way. 

Chinese Giant and Ruby King are good varie- 
ties. 




ONIONS FROM 
SEED. 



PICKLER ONH INS 



VEGETABLE GAKDENING 65 

PUMPKIN 

Same treatment as water melon. For squash 
bug, dust vines with powdered tobacco leaves. 

Winter Luxury is a good variety. 

For "Jumbo" pumpkins, try True Pot Iron, 
often of gigantic size, weighing as much as 200 
pounds. 

If extra large size is wanted, pinch off all but 
one specimen, and give occasional watering. If 
rich earth is placed on the vines in several places, 
roots will form, and give the plant increased 
vigor. 

GROWING PICKLER ONIONS AND SETS 

There is an increasing demand for small white 
onions which are largely used in making mixed 
pickles and for other flavoring and canning pur- 
poses. These little onions are easily grown and 
it requires a very small area only, to produce 
abundance both for pickling and for sets for the 
following season. In sorting out the crop, the 
smaller bulbs are used for sets, and the larger 
for pickling. Only white varieties are grown for 
this purpose. Indiana Silver Skin has been 
found very satisfactory for both purposes. 

The soil must be light and very rich. If sand 
is used, see that it is worked into the soil evenly. 
The beds should be about six feet wide. In sow- 
ing, begin at one end, using a board to kneel 
upon, make a shallow furrow crosswise of the 
bed, five inches wide and one-half inch deep. Into 
this furrow, sow the seed very thickly and evenly. 
Cover with sandy soil one-half inch deep and 
press firm and smooth. Then leave a space eight 



66 THE GARDENETTE 

inches wide and make a second furrow, and so 
on until the entire bed is planted. Pull out any 
weeds that come up, and cultivate the eight-inch 
"middles" often. Nitrate of soda, one-fourth 
pound to the square rod, may be used to stimu- 
late the growth. Apply before a rain, between 
the rows, as it must not touch the foliage. When 
the tops of the onions begin to die, the bulbs 
should be dug, choosing a clear, dry day. If the 
weather continues dry and fair, they may be left 
on the ground for several days, after which they 
should be placed in shallow trays or boxes and 
stored in a cool, dry place, where it will not freeze. 
Dampness will cause them to sprout. 

If colored varieties are preferred, try Red 
Wethersfield, Yellow Globe, and Brown Beauty. 
All are productive, and are good keepers. If 
seed of Prizetaker is sown in flats, after sprouting, 
about March 1, and transplanted about the mid- 
dle of April, in very rich soil, extra fine bulbs of 
largest size and finest quality may be secured. 
Sow seed in rows three inches apart and about 
one-half inch in rows. Cover one-half inch, and 
set in a place not too warm. When the plants 
are an inch high they may be stimulated with a 
little nitrate of soda, sown between the rows. 
Transplant out of doors, setting in rows sixteen 
inches apart and six inches apart in the row. For 
extra fine specimens, use nitrate of soda at inter- 
vals of four weeks, one-fourth pound to the 
square rod. 

PIMENTOES 

Pimentoes are a variety of peppers similar to 
sweet mangoes. Up to this time the best have 



VEGETABLE GABDENING 67 

been imported from Spain, but they can be grown 
to perfection in Ohio. They are a tropical plant 
and require a long season to mature them prop- 
erly. It is best, therefore, to start them in an 
incubator, greenhouse or hot-bed, very early. 
Sprout the seed and sow in flats early in March 
or the latter part of February. They thrive best 
in a warm, sunny location and must not be al- 
lowed to remain long in a temperature below fifty 
degrees, or they will drop their leaves and thus 
suffer a severe set-back. They are liable to be 
attacked by the green aphis or plant louse and 
must be sprayed frequently with tobacco tea, 
made rather strong. Care must be taken to reach 
the under sides of the leaves, else many will es- 
cape. When the plants are two or three inches 
high, they should be transplanted into straw- 
berry baskets or three-inch pots, and kept in a 
warm, sunny corner until settled weather, usu- 
ally about the last of May, when they should be 
planted out of doors in rich soil. The plant 
forcer or booster will greatly assist in giving the 
tender plants a good start, though they must not 
be kept on too long. Do not plant pimentoes 
near mangoes or hot peppers, as they will mix. 
The famous Pimento Cheese owes its excellence 
to the use of pimentoes which give it a peculiar 
flavor. The plants are not subject to attacks of 
insects after they are set in the open ground. 
The ripe pimentoes are very beautiful, and may 
be canned for winter use, same as tomatoes. The 
genuine Spanish are somewhat flat, or oblate in 
form, very meaty, and have small seed cavities. 



68 THE GARDENETTE 

RADISH 

The radish thrives exceedingly well on com- 
mon Sandwich Beds. There should be plenty of 
sand in top layer of compost. 

Sprout the seeds, and sow at intervals of three 
weeks, from March till September. 

If gypsum or land plaster is sown over the beds 
before planting, a quart to the square yard, the 
quality will be greatly improved. Mix by rak- 
ing the soil. 

For winter radishes, sow about June 1st. Suc- 
cession may be had by sowing all kinds mixed, 
but the later ones will lack in crispness. 

Sow radishes in rows twelve inches apart, and 
not closer than three inches in the row. Cover 
on inch deep. 

Icicle, Scarlet Turnip, and Scarlet White Tip 
are excellent varieties. 

To be good, radishes should grow quickly, and 
great care must be taken to avoid thick seeding. 

RHUBARB OR PIE PLANT 

Make a post hole hill, only the hole should b« 
wider. Procure in early spring divided roots, 
and set one in each hill, and pack rich soil closely 
and give a good watering. 

Do not pull stems the first season. Never per- 
mit the flowering stems to remain, or the plant 
will be greatly weakened. Pull them out as soon 
as they appear. Give additional manure each 
fall. The ground cannot be made too rich. 

If one-year seeding roots can be had, they are 
much better than divided old roots. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 69 

RHUBARB IN WINTER 

If rhubarb roots are dug about the first of De- 
cember, or a little earlier, left exposed to freez- 
ing for a couple of weeks, and then placed in suit- 
able boxes and removed to a warm cellar, they 
will push up beautiful red stems that are splendid 
for stews or pies. The clumps must be at least 
three years old, and they must be allowed to 
freeze hard before they are put in the cellar. If 
the clumps are too large for handling, they may 
be divided with a sharp spade, but divisions 
should not be made too small. Soil, sand, or com- 
post should be packed around the roots, and the 
box should be deep enough to hold compost suf- 
ficient to cover all parts of the plant. Water 
moderately, but frequently. Light is not essen- 
tial, as they seem to do best in partial darkness. 

After gathering the stems until spring, the 
clumps may as well be thrown away, as they are 
exhausted, and are worthless for planting again. 

A gain of two or three weeks in earliness may 
be made with rhubarb, out-of-doors, right where 
the clumps grow, without digging, by placing bar- 
rels without heads over the clumps. Pack stable 
manure close about and between the barrels, but 
on the outside, about eight inches deep. Treated 
in this way, the clumps are not injured in any 
way, and may be left standing from year to year. 

SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT 

Salsify does best on "Modified" Sandwich 
Beds. Sprout the seed same as parsnips. Sow 
early in April in rows eighteen inches apart, and 
thre© inches in row. Cover one inch. 



70 THE GARDENETTE 

Salsify may be dug as used, or it may be left 
in the ground all winter. Light freezing rather 
improves it. 

For winter's use dig and store in sand in box 
in cellar. 

Mammoth Sandwich Island is a fine variety. 

SPINACH 

Sprout the seed, and sow in hills or rows 
twelve inches apart, and about three inches apart 
in row. Cover one inch. Sow at intervals of 
three weeks for succession. For late, sow in Sep- 
tember. 

When weather gets warm, shade with screens 
supported on stakes two feet high. 

SUGAR CORN 

Plant all kinds of sugar corn in rows four feet 
apart and about eight inches apart in rows. But 
first sprout the seeds, and reject any that do 
not start vigorous growth. Cover two inches 
deep. 

It is useless to plant before the ground is warm, 
for seed will rot, but if seed is carefully sprouted 
they may be planted a week earlier on Sandwich 
Beds than on ordinary soil. By this plan ten 
days' time is gained over other methods. 

Corn may be grown with Early Ohio potatoes, 
as shown in third "Group Planting." This plan 
is designed where the available area is very lim- 
ited. If there is room, separate planting is 
recommended. 

For succession plant every three weeks till 
July. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 71 

Golden Bantam for early: Country Gentleman 
for late. 

SQUASH 

Squashes require same treatment as water mel- 
ons. For squash bug use white hellebore. For 
striped bug use powdered tobacco leaves a hand- 
ful to the hill, scattered directly over the small 
plants just as they emerge from the soil. 

Sow ten or twelve seeds to the hill, and after 
danger is over, thin to two strong plants to the 
hill. Cover two inches, and firm the soil slightly. 
If squash bugs become numerous and destructive, 
pick by hand, and drop them into a pan into which 
there is a little coal oil. If left undisturbed they 
will quickly ruin the crop. 

For winter's use pull before frosts, and store 
in a cool room where it does not freeze. 

Delicata and Banana are superior varieties. 

SWISS CHARD 

This unique vegetable deserves more attention 
than it usually receives. It belongs to the beet 
family, but the stems and leaves are used and not 
the root. 

Stems may be used like asparagus, or leaves 
and stems may be prepared like spinach. They 
are excellent either way. 

Sprout the seed, and sow in rows eighteen 
inches apart, and twelve inches apart in the row. 

Give plenty of water. 

Pull the leaves freely: the more you use, the 
faster they are renewed. A few plants will sup- 
ply a family. 



72 THE GAEDENETTE 

There is but one variety — Lucullus. 
It transplants easily, so vacancies can readily 
be filled. 

TOMATOES 

Of all vegetables grown in the garden, the to- 
mato is easily the King. Its use is almost uni- 
versal and its popularity is undisputed. It is 
eaten raw when ripe, fried when green, made into 
stews, pickles, soups, ketchup, etc., and in some 
form is found on our tables the year round, and 
is relished by all. Its wholesomeness is unques- 
tioned. It is canned in enormous quantities, and 
is a staple article with all dealers in canned goods. 

The development of the tomato from the insig- 
nificant little "Love Apple," which our grand- 
mothers grew in flower pots as a curiosity, to the 
perfect fruit of to-day, seems in itself like magic. 
The original type was about the size of a well 
developed Concord grape, and like the grape, 
grew in clusters. Compare these with good 
specimens of Earliana, Bonny Best, Ponderosa, 
or those marvelous creations of the Livingstons', 
the Globe, Stone, Beauty, Favorite, Perfection, 
or Golden Queen, whose fancy names scarcely do 
justice to their real merits, and the wonder of 
it all is at once apparent. 

I have been asked which were the very best 
tomatoes. The answer seems easy: The very 
first ripe specimen in the spring, and the last one 
of the season! There is no question but that 
earliness is a very desirable quality, whether 
grown for home use or for market. The demand 
is usually so great at the beginning of the season 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 73 

that good stock finds ready sale at fancy prices. 
There is not a great deal of difference in varie- 
ties as regards earliness. Age, vigor, methods 
of culture, training, soil and protection usually 
make for earliness or lateness, though a few va- 
rieties have been found that possess some advan- 
tage in the way of early ripening. In our ex- 
periments, Earliana and Early June seem best. 
Both are of good quality and size. The Early 
June seems to lead in size, productiveness and 
earliness, though in the latter respect it has a 
very small margin in its favor. For early mar- 
ket we have found it to be a veritable "money- 
maker." 

The methods hereinafter described are in- 
tended for those who grow extra early tomatoes 
in the open ground, for market, but the system 
may be successfully practiced by the amateur on 
limited areas. If but a few plants are wanted it 
is always cheaper to buy them of a reliable 
grower. In such case, be sure to order well in 
advance so as to be certain that you will get them 
when wanted, and always order a few more than 
you will need. The surplus are carefully heeled 
out and kept to replace any that die in transplant- 
ing, or that meet with accident. For extra early, 
the plants should be ten or twelve inches high, 
rather stocky, well rooted, and should show some 
blossoms before being transplanted to the open 
ground. They should receive careful handling so 
that the growth is not checked, for any check in 
growth means loss in earliness. If a large quan- 
tity of plants are wanted, it is best to grow the 
plants at home. 



74 THE GARDENETTE 

For extra early tomatoes seed should be sown 
as early as March 1, or even two weeks earlier. 
Tomato seeds are slow in germinating under ordi- 
nary conditions. We have been very successful 
by pursuing the methods described, for we have 
succeeded in ripening the crop two or three weeks 
in advance of those grown by the ordinary meth- 
ods. 

The seed is first sprouted. To do this, it is 
spread about one-fourth of an inch deep on a strip 
of burlap which is twelve by twenty-four inches in 
size. The burlap is then folded down from both 
ends, over the seed and rolled up and fastened 
with pins. A label is also prepared and attached, 
giving name of variety, date, and other informa- 
tion desired. Then, into a pan containing half 
a pint or more of warm but not hot water, pour 
three or four drops of spirits of camphor. Now 
place the roll of seeds in this water and leave for 
one-half hour. Press out lightly, so that there 
will be no dripping, wrap the roll as it is, in five 
or six thicknesses of old newspaper; wet, and 
place where the temperature is regular, and about 
seventy-five degrees. The hot air chamber of a 
Plant Incubator furnishes exactly these condi- 
tions. Examine the seeds, and water as often as 
needed. If conditions are kept right, germination 
will show within four to six days. As soon as 
the germ appears, plant at once, or there is dan- 
ger of losing the seed. The seed should then be 
sown in flats or shallow boxes in which there is 
about three inches of rich, sandy compost. The 
flats should be of uniform size, twenty-four by 
twenty-six inches, and five inches deep. Cleats 




FIELD'S EARLY JUNE TOMATOES. 




« 
o 
u 

< 

Q 
< 
t/f 

w 
o 



o 

H 

Q 
W 
W 
< 

H 
c/j 

W 
P-> 

o 

< 
U 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 75 

should be nailed across each end, on the outside, 
to assist in handling, and lifting about. Press 
the soil or compost firm and smooth. Then make 
shallow furrows about three inches apart. This 
will allow seven rows running lengthwise of the 
flat. Into these furrows, carefully drop the seeds 
about one inch apart and cover one-half inch deep, 
and press the soil smooth. Prepare a thin wood 
label, giving variety, and date of planting, and 
tack this securely to the end of the flat. Other- 
wise there is danger of the record being lost or 
interchanged. It pays to be careful with your 
records. 

The flats may be covered for a few days with 
several thicknesses of old newspapers to retain 
both heat and moisture. The Plant Incubator 
is the ideal place for the flat, but if this is not 
available, place the flat on the staging of a green- 
house, or near a sunny window in a warm room. 
The temperature should not be permitted to fall 
below fifty degrees, even at night. A well man- 
aged hot-bed does well for this purpose, but it 
must be very carefully controlled, or the plants 
will be * ' spindling ' ' and tender. This can be 
avoided by giving careful ventilation on mild 
days. When the plants have formed the fourth 
leaf, they should be transplanted into other flats 
and set three inches apart each way. Do not pull 
up the plants, but lift them one at a time, by using 
a sharp splinter. Set them rather deep, and press 
the soil firm. Give them a good watering, and 
shade for two days. If only each alternate plant 
is taken up, the remainder may be permitted to 
remain where started. But the soil should be 



76 THE GARDENETTE 

pressed down firm, and the plants given a good 
sprinkling, and shaded for a day or two. Other- 
wise they may wilt and get a set-back. 

When the plants are four inches high they 
should be again transplanted, this time to common 
quart strawberry baskets, using rich soil or com- 
post. Press soil very firm, water well, and keep 
shaded a few days as before. The baskets with 
plants may then be placed in similar flats and 
kept in a warm, sunny place. 

About the middle of April the plants, baskets 
and all, should be moved to a cold frame, or what 
is better, a cold pit. The difference between the 
two is that a cold frame is built on top of the 
ground, usually because of insufficient drainage, 
while the cold pit is excavated to a depth of eight- 
een inches or more in the ground. But for a pit, 
the drainage must be good. With either cold 
frame or pit it is best to use double frames, one 
within the other, leaving a space of five or six 
inches between the outer and inner frames. This 
space is filled with sawdust, litter, common soil, 
or sand. The frames should be at least thirty 
inches high at the back, and a foot less in front, 
to give the proper slope and admit sunshine. The 
covering is with glazed sash: if double glazed, 
so much the better. Good lumber should be used, 
and all parts should fit neatly so as to exclude 
frosts and cold winds. 

Hot-bed or cold frame sash usually come in six- 
foot lengths, but it is better to get the sash first, 
and build the frame to fit, so there will be no mis- 
take as to dimensions. The inside frame should 
extend to the bottom of the excavation, but the 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 77 

outside frame may rest on the surface of the 
ground. Bank up outside, to the top, all around, 
and pack the soil firm. The pit should be ready 
by March first, and may be used to harden off ex- 
tra early cabbage, cauliflower, kohlrabi, or other 
half hardy plants, which are started in the incu- 
bator or dwelling. These are usually ready to set 
in the open ground before the pit is needed for 
tomatoes, mangoes, and egg plant. 

Horse stable manure is packed firmly in the 
bottom of the pit to a depth of about three inches. 
Then place the baskets containing the plants on 
this closely together. Work in compost between 
the baskets wherever possible, and sprinkle enough 
compost over the whole to conceal the baskets. 
Water rather lightly with luke warm water. 
They must not be watered too much or they will 
"damp off." On sunny days give ventilation be- 
tween ten a. m. and three p. m. by raising each 
alternate sash about three inches at the upper 
end. In case of frosts, cover the sash with blan- 
kets or carpet. 

Plants grown in this manner should be ten to 
fifteen inches high by the middle of May or a 
few days earlier, when they may be set out on a 
Sandwich Bed, or the open ground. If in the lat- 
ter, the soil should be naturally fertile or made 
so by the application of well rotted manure, a 
shovelful to the hill, mixed with the soil after 
plowing or spading. 

The rows should extend east and west, and be 
at least five feet apart, with plants three or four 
feet apart in the row. If the plants are to be 
staked, they may be grown closer, say thirty 



78 THE GAKDENETTE 

inches in the rows which are four feet apart. In 
using the "Fodder Mulch," to be described later, 
the wide spacing is necessary. 

Holes about six inches deep are dug at proper 
distances and the plants, baskets and all, are 
planted so that the basket is entirely concealed. 
In setting the plants in position, gently crush the 
bottom of the basket so as to give the roots chance 
to penetrate the soil beneath. After the plant is 
in place, give it at least a quart of water, and 
when that has soaked away, draw a little fine soil 
around the plant to prevent "baking." 

Some protection should be given at once. The 
Plant Forcers or Boosters, described elsewhere, 
are ideal for this purpose. For the first two or 
three days, turn the glass to the north. After 
the shock of transplanting is over, turn the booster 
around so that the glass faces the sun at ten 
o'clock. In warm, sunny days remove the caps 
for three or four hours in the middle of the day. 
When the plants are established, leave off the caps 
for several days, and then remove the boosters 
altogether unless late frosts threaten. 

STAKING AND CARE 

Plants may be supported by single stakes. This 
is best accomplished by driving a heavy stake 
about four feet in length a few inches from the 
root of the plant. This should be driven deep 
enough to insure firmness, or winds will prostrate 
the plant with its load of fruit, especially after 
heavy rains. To this stake, wire a lath or pole 
about six or eight feet long, using No. 11 wire. 
Draw the wire close and tight, both at the top of 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 79 

the stake, and also near the ground. The tomato 
plant is then tied with a soft string to the pole 
or lath at intervals of about a foot. The side 
branches are thinned, and when the plant has 
reached a suitable height, the terminal bud is 
pinched out. Rather severe pruning is best. 

The " three stake" method consists of the use 
of common plastering lath driven, edge-wise to- 
wards the center, in a triangular form, the base 
about ten inches each way, and the top somewhat 
less. Around the lath, in spiral form, is passed 
a common binder twine, looping it at each lath. 
The plant inclosed is trained to grow straight 
up, extending its side branches through spaces 
between the lath and the twine. Tolerably severe 
pruning is advisable, also topping. 

But best of all methods, especially for large 
areas, is the ''Fodder Mulch." This consists of 
mulching the entire row, on south side only, with 
any suitable mulch, though corn fodder is the best 
of all materials for this purpose. Placing this 
mulch on south side only, allows the foliage to 
shade the fruit and prevents sun scald. The 
plants are then trained to lie on the fodder, which 
affords a clean support for the vines and fruit. 
The fodder serves to conserve the moisture. It 
also absorbs extra heat during the hot day, and 
radiates it at night, thus greatly aiding in early 
ripening without sunburn. This plan is cheap, 
quickly done, permits the plant to follow its natu- 
ral habit of sprawling, or straggling, and will be 
found to set and ripen more fruit than when the 
plants are staked, and to ripen them some days 
earlier. 



80 THE GAEDENETTE 

Plants mulched with fodder will usually set and 
ripen double as many fine fruits as those trained 
to stakes or left to straggle on the ground, be- 
cause the warm, sunny, sheltered bed attracts 
those insects which are necessary to effect perfect 
pollenization. Early tomato plants often fail to 
set fruit because the cool weather of early sum- 
mer does not invite visitation of insects. 

Growth and ripening can be accelerated consid- 
erably by the application of nitrate of soda, after 
the plants start growth in the open ground. Use 
a small teaspoonful of crushed crystals to the 
plant, sowing broadcast on the top of the ground, 
around the plant, but be careful that it does not 
touch the leaves, or they will be injured. Repeat 
this every ten days until the fruit is full grown. 

For varieties I would choose Field's Early June, 
and Earliana for first early. The former is 
slightly earlier and more productive. For main 
crop, Stone, Globe, Favorite, and Ponderosa. 
The Ponderosa is sometimes rough, but is unsur- 
passed for slicing. Bonny Best is of excellent 
quality, but as yet is somewhat variable. 

TURNIPS 

Turnips may be sown in April and May, but 
rarely do well. For late, sow in August or early 
half of September. Sow in rows twelve inches 
apart, and ten seeds to the foot. When well 
started, thin carefully to six inches. Neglect of 
thinning will spoil the crop. 

After sowing the seed, the ground should be 
tramped firm, and then given a good soaking. If 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 81 

shaded with muslin screens for a few days, a bet- 
ter stand is often secured. Turnips may be used 
to fill vacant places made by removal of other 
crops. 



SUCCESSION 

These may be planted for succession at any time 
between dates named. 

SEEDS 

Lettuce April to August. 

Radishes April to September. 

Beets April to August. 

Sugar Corn May to July. 

Beans May to August. 

Cucumbers May to July. 

Endive April to August. 

Peas April to July. 

Potatoes April to June. 

Spinach April to September. 

Turnips April to August. 

PLANTS 

Cabbage April to July. 

Celery April to July. 

Peppers May to July. 

Tomatoes May to July. 

Kohl Rabi .April to August. 

Cauliflower April to August. 

For late planting choose early varieties. 

CULTIVATION 

The Sandwich System does not require that the 
plants receive much hoeing or other cultivation. 
Usually a little stirring of the surface soil, and 

82 



VEGETABLE GAEDENING 83 

the pulling out of weeds is about all that will be 
necessary. 

A very narrow hoe should be provided. The 
author had such an implement made by his black- 
smith, at a cost of fifty cents, which gives excel- 
lent results. 

The blade was made of tool steel, about width 
of a butcher-knife, only it was bent into a curve 
like the letter "J," the lower end pointed, and 
with both edges made sharp. A light handle was 
purchased at hardware store. 

FERTILIZERS 

If additional fertilizers are needed the follow- 
ing will be found excellent for the purpose : 
Nitrate of Soda. One-fourth pound to the 
square rod. 

Apply after plants are above ground, being 
very careful to keep it off the leaves. 

Pulverize and apply before watering. Re- 
peat at intervals of two weeks. This will 
give quick and rapid growth. 

Costs about five cents per pound. 
Raw Bone Meal. Apply broadcast, and rake in 
soil before planting, one pound to square rod. 
Costs about three cents per pound. 
Wood Ashes. Apply broadcast before plant- 
ing, and rake in soil, two pounds (two quarts) 
per square rod. 

WATERING 

Of course, by the Sandwich Method of Garden- 
ing, success can only be attained by the supply of 
plenty of water, for otherwise the plants will soon 



84 THE GAEDENETTE 

perish. Most cities and towns, and even villages, 
now have water-works, and the supply is constant 
and ample. 

Watering should be done in the evening, if best 
results are to be obtained, and it is much better 
to water profusely once or twice a week than to 
give a light sprinkling oftener. In very dry, hot 
and windy weather it may be necessary to water 
every other day. 

Some plants require much more water than 
others, notably celery, spinach, cauliflower, let- 
tuce, and radishes. Peas and beans require less, 
but should not be allowed to languish for lack of 
water. Celery especially wants plenty of mois- 
ture, but it is usually best to allow the water to 
soak into the ground without permitting the leaves 
or foliage to become wet, because if the latter is 
kept wet, rust and blight may ensue. This is espe- 
cially true when the plants get to be six inches 
high or larger. At this stage of growth, water 
the roots only. This can be done by laying the 
hose on the ground in the middle of the bed, and 
permitting a light flow. Let this continue until 
the ground in the bed is thoroughly soaked. 

Most plants are better off if the water is 
sprayed directly on and over them. Sometimes, 
in very hot weather, lettuce and endive will rot if 
too much water is supplied. 

For cantaloupes, squashes, cucumbers, water- 
melons and punrpkins, water in the manner de- 
scribed in the chapter on cantaloupes, but stop 
watering as time of ripening approaches. 

All these plants are better for a liberal supply 
of water at intervals of a week or so ; especially is 




EVERGREEN 
SUG \K CORN. 



GOLDEN BANTAM 
SUGAR CORN. 



RICE l'< IP (( »RN. 



VEGETABLE GAEDENING 



85 



this true of cucumbers. When grown by the Post- 
Hole Method, and liberally watered, their produc- 
tiveness is marvelous. 



TRANSPLANTING TABLE 



Readily Transplanted. 

Asparagus 

Beets 

Cabbage 

Cauliflower 

Chard 

Celery 

Egg Plant 

Endive 

Kohl Rabi 

Lettuce 

Onions (from 

seedlings) 
Parsley 
Pepper 
Tomato 



Difficult to Transplant. Best 

to sow seed where 
uanted. 

Beans 

Carrot 

Corn 

* Cucumber 
*Melon, Water 

* Melon, Musk 
Parsnips 
Peas 

Pumpkins 
Radish 
Salsify 
*Squash 
Turnips 
Okra 



Seeds of the following are usually sown in hot- 
beds for setting out in garden as soon as weather 
and soil permit. Can be started in Incubator. 

If only a few plants are needed it is cheaper to 
purchase of a reliable seedsman or plant grower 
than to attempt to grow them: 



Vegetables 


Flowers 


Flowers 


Early Cabbage 


Asters 


Stocks 


Early Cauliflower 


Balsams 


Verbena 



* These may be started in pots and with care may be trans- 
planted to open ground. 



86 



THE GARDENETTE 



Vegetables 


Floivers 


Flowers 


Egg Plant 


Cannas 


Pansy 


Endive 


Carnations 


Heliotrope 


Kohl Rabi 


Coxcomb 


Marigold 


Lettuce 


Cosmos 


Phlox 


Onion (seed) 


Dahlia 


Larkspur 


Pepper 


Dianthus 


Moonflower 


Tomato 


Ricinus 


Zinnias, Etc, 


Beets 


Salvia 




Chard 







DATES FOB PLANTING IN THE SOUTH 

The dates here given are for latitude of Jack- 
sonville, Fla., Mobile, Ala., New Orleans, La., and 
San Antonio, Texas. For points one hundred 
miles north the dates should be ten days earlier 
in autumn, and about same length of time later 
in spring, for each one hundred miles. Allowance 
should also be made for difference in local condi- 
tions. 

Artichoke, seed. . .February. 
Artichoke, suckersNovember. 
Asparagus, seed. .February. 
Asparagus, roots. March. 
Beans, tender podsMarch to May. 

Beans, lima April to May. 

January to April; July to No- 
Beets vember. 

Chard January to April. 

Brussels Sprouts. August to September. 

Borecole February to March. 

Beets January to April ; July to No- 
vember. 
Chard January to April. 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 87 

Cabbage July to September; January 

and February. 

Cauliflower April to September. 

Celery May and June ; August and 

September. 

Sugar Corn February to June. 

Cucumber March to July. 

Egg Plant January. 

Endive March to May; September and 

October. 

Garlic October and November. 

Kohl Babi ...... .January and February; July 

to October. 
Lettuce January to April; September 

to December. 
Melon, both kinds. March and April. 

Okra .March and April. 

Onion, seeds and 

sets January and February. 

Shallots, sets . . . .November. 

Parsley November, February ; June 

and July. 
Parsnips and Car- 
rots .January to March. 

Peas, Tom Thumb August and September. 
Peas, Marrowfat. .January and February. 

Peppers January. 

Potatoes, Irish ...January to March (Feb. 1 is 

best date). 
Potatoes, sweet. . .April and May. 

Radish The whole year. 

Salsify October. 

Spinach September and March. 

Squash March to June. 



88 THE GARDENETTE 

Tomato January to March ; May to 

June. 
Turnips ,. ... January to March; July to Oc- 
tober. 

The author's personal experience in gardening 
in the South proves that the Sandwich Beds are 
admirably adapted to that region, for excellent 
crops were grown regardless of adobe, alkali, 
sand, or other unfavorable conditions. 

Sandwich Beds are especially successful on 
strongly alkaline soils. In such cases first place 
a layer, three inches deep, of old corn stalks. On 
this build the regular Sandwich Beds. The alkali 
will not trouble at all. 

The double muslin screens are just what is 
needed to protect tender, succulent plants in this 
land of sunshine. By use of this means of pro- 
tection, the finest grades of celery, lettuce, spinach, 
radishes, etc., can be produced with certainty. 

Other cultural directions are similar to those 
found in the body of the book. 

STEAWBEEEIES 

This fine fruit is usually grown on large areas, 
but can be produced in abundance, and of the finest 
flavor, on very limited spaces. 

The difference in flavor is very much in favor 
of the home grown article. This is particularly 
true where berries are necessarily picked before 
fully ripened, and shipped to distant markets. 

For finest flavor and highest excellence, straw- 
berries should be gathered when fully ripe, prefer- 
ably in the cool of the morning, with a trace of 
dew upon them ! 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 89 

The Modified Sandwich Beds are exactly 
adapted to producing this delicious fruit in its 
greatest perfection. A space six by twelve feet 
will usually produce enough for a small family, 
both for dessert and jam, but a bed twice that size, 
six by twenty-four feet, will afford enough in ad- 
dition for gifts to appreciative friends, and few 
articles give the supreme satisfaction that a dish 
of large, showy, delicious strawberries is capable 
of inspiring. 

It may be that the owner of a small plot in the 
back-yard, while wishing to grow something nice, 
yet has not spare time to attempt many vege- 
tables; to such strawberry growing, even on a 
very limited scale, certainly offers peculiar attrac- 
tions, for after the beds are constructed and 
carefully planted, they need very little atten- 
tion. 

An occasional hoeing, and pulling of grass and 
weeds, will be about all that is needed. 

The planting should be done in latitude of Co- 
lumbus, Ohio, as early as April. In fact the 
plants should be set as soon as other " first plant- 
ing" is done, though good success may be often 
secured by planting as late as May 10. 

Spring planting is usually much more success- 
ful than fall planting, in this latitude. 

In latitude of New Orleans, San Antonio, etc., 
planting may be done any time from November to 
February. 

The beds should be six feet wide, and of any 
suitable length. In making up the compost, add 
another part of sand, that is, the compost may be 
as follows: One part rich soil, one part fine 



90 THE GARDENETTE 

stable manure — that from cow stables preferred 
— and two parts fine river sand. 

First spade the ground, filling the trenches with 
fine manure as each line of spading advances, as 
described in Modified Sandwich Beds. Spread 
about three inches of compost, as above described, 
evenly over the beds, and make tolerably firm by 
tramping ; rake smooth, and it is ready for plant- 
ing. 

When plants are received, remove all but three 
young, fresh leaves; dip the roots in "puddle," 
which is a mixture of clay and water, about con- 
sistency of cream. Allow the roots to remain in 
puddle until planted; that is, do not drop them 
ahead of planter, for the roots will soon suffer, 
if exposed to drying air. 

In planting, first make a hole about five inches 
in diameter, and three or four inches deep. In 
bottom of hole make, with the hand, a small coni- 
cal mound, say three inches in diameter, and two 
inches high. Set the center of the plant directly 
over the center of the conical hill, spread the roots 
evenly and smoothly, in all directions, down the 
sides, and then, carefully draw fine compost over 
the roots, filling up the hole till the ground is 
level. To prevent soil covering the heart of the 
plant, gather the leaves in left hand, until plant- 
ing is completed. 

After filling in the soil, press down very firmly, 
placing toe of shoe on each side of plant, close 
up, and then pressing with full weight. 

When planting is properly done, the plant will 
be a little below the level, and set so firmly that it 



VEGETABLE GARDENING 91 

cannot be pulled out by drawing on a single leaf. 

After setting, pour a quart of water over and 
closely around each plant, and then shade with 
muslin screens for three or four days. Water 
again when screens are removed. 

In ordering plants be sure to get a few extra 
plants of each variety. These may be planted 
temporarily, and used later to fill vacancies. 

Michael's Early, Bubach, Gandy, and Aroma 
are fine varieties, and give a long season of ripen- 
ing. 

If other varieties are substituted, be sure that 
at least two varieties, out of five, are staminate 
flowered. The pistillate varieties are among the 
best bearers, if they are properly pollenized by 
staminate varieties planted near by, otherwise 
they will not be productive. 

Plants set in manner here described will cover 
the ground the first season, and bear abundantly 
the following spring. In the North a light pro- 
tection of leaves, or stable litter, will protect them 
from winter kill. But the covering must not be 
very thick, or they will often blanch and rot. Put 
on barely enough cover to conceal the plants; a 
little less will be better. The mulch or covering 
need not be removed in spring. 

For stimulating growth, use nitrate of soda, a 
pint to a bed twenty-four feet in length (six feet 
wide). Apply the finely pulverized crystals by 
hand, broadcast, by sifting between plants, being 
very careful to keep the nitrate off the foliage of 
the plants. This should be applied early in 
spring, and repeated two or three weeks later. 



92 THE GAEDENETTE 

After fruit is all ripened, the bed can be made 
productive for second year, in the following man- 
ner: 

With a sharp hoe cut off, close to the ground, 
all the plants on a strip eighteen inches wide, leav- 
ing alternate strips of plants of same width. 
These strips thus destroyed should be where the 
old plants stood, leaving young plants for next 
crop. Then with narrow hoe, thin the strips re- 
maining, leaving a vigorous plant not nearer its 
neighbor than six inches. Then with a spading- 
fork loosen the soil between rows, and around 
plants. Water well, and a vigorous growth of 
young, healthy plants will soon cover the entire 
bed. If they become matted, it will pay to pull 
out the weaker plants, otherwise the berries will 
be smaller, and of poorer flavor. 

Nitrate of soda may be used second season, ap- 
plied in same manner as directed for first crop. 

After two crops, the bed should be changed to 
new location, planting a new patch the second 
spring. 

Or a new plantation may be made every spring, 
destroying the plants after first crop is gathered. 

Treated in this manner, 100 plants should pro- 
duce from two to three bushels or more of highest 
grade of delicious fruit. Between time of blos- 
soming and ripening of fruit, they should be 
watered at least every other evening, rather copi- 
ously, reducing the quantity of water as ripening 
approaches. 

On alkaline soils, or on adobe, it is better to 
use the regular Sandwich Bed, for on these beds, 






' f W&y > i 




VEGETABLE GAKDENING 93 

properly constructed, good crops can be grown, 
even where ordinary methods fail. 

Plants may be set in rows, eighteen inches 
apart, beginning nine inches from the side, thus 
planting four rows on a bed six feet wide. In 
rows, twelve inches apart. 

A bed six by twenty-four feet will require 
ninety-six plants. Better order 125. 

When plants arrive they should be planted with- 
out delay. This is important. 

The estimated yield here given is very conserva- 
tive. The author has been able to grow more than 
double this quantity. 



94 



THE GARDENETTE 



u UJA& u u ^ u u u 






*£ 



O O £ 






oooooooooooo < 
ooooooooooooo< 

r-|r-|r-lT-l>-l'- | '-lr-lr-lr-<r-l r -(<o T 
©OOOoOtDoOGOOOoO 



>oo OOgoOOO^O Ooo < 

'OOoooo^o^oooOm^oo ! 

(rHrHCDCO'Hr-l" rn r-lrHTH rH C ]iH rtrt r1( 
OOOOOCZoCOOoOOSoO* 



0^0'OOOOOOOOODhOo OOOOOOc'OOC'0'o&oOo 



I> ^ 13 

wflo 



: .2 .2 -2 .2 .2 .£.£.£.£. 

3 C3 N N -H<.-piw)riH)NHM<-*i* 



ja.s.a.c.fi'g.c.a.c.ii'g.is.c.d 
.2 .£ .S .S .2 .2 .2 .2 .S .£ .5 .2 .5 .5 •£ .£ .£ .5 .5 •£ .£ .5 .£ 

**e\ rim 

CI HpJHhJ'r-H'HH'HH'iH (M C3 HmCO tH -^i (M CI H^^t* C3 rH rH r-< CJ HM 



£2 



^Q)OlOOQ)4JDDa'OODQjt, l OOOi)a)4JliO,* , OOOl;OoOOOQ)OiO 

oG)4>o^^^^^^CCGjO'floC'©<i)oa>'^o^ooo<i;Oa>oooa>p3a;o 















,,. ^ cu 



ooooommooo 

*T "T 7 1 T ^ 7 1 



t 1 "m 1 T* "T T 1 "T "T 

» SO O O tOO <C 00 (D O 



co ■*# o o ■* m o co ei ci O ci 

HtlHHHflH HHHH 
I I I I I I I I I I I I 

cicommooco-^cocotoco 



e. o 

O « 

O 



*3, B _5 



>-a 5 =1 s s =s 
t-i'n ^/j^ w'j^ >> >% >> 

g 11 s < % < § s § 



bC **> bi CD 0) r*» >» >. X to 

39 3 s a « « «"3 a 

"u 'u 'C ^ >-• >-u "u'u'u 'E Th 

a a P.* * « a a a a a a 



3 « cuul: cu K B s cu 
1-5 »Mg!B 3 3 3 03 



£ j 
&0 



^> 



•3 n 






S£ 



a c 
a s 

b4 



ss 



afif 



^^ 



•<« 



7! a 

03 93 

pq a 



7^ " C^ 73 

0000 



o * 

,-.-l»St8 

g «»S a^ « 

i- S S m'-SS S " • 0.3 E « » - g 5 gag h g g g „ 

cs as a) .« o a A" » .9 cb^i-^oais ts _tu « a3 o a * cs aero o d 



.« 



^( S 



^ 



^ CO 

S"c5 

02 50 






02 ,. m ~ 



a a 



a a aA - -sS a*C« «««■= 
- J' 1 ^ ■££■?, t l|, 2'S >- '" os cs a-5 a *o ^ .5 a a a t- 

CS8UCOO SMa^l^Ji^fl St!i5J>0)fl)OStliSOrroo3 



Part II 
FLOWER GARDENING 



THE FLOWER GARDEN 

THE use of the Sandwich Beds for growing 
flowering plants was an afterthought with 
the author. Experiments with a few varieties at 
first showed such marvelous results that the list 
was largely extended, and it was found that ex- 
cellent success could be achieved with nearly 
everything tried. Indeed, these experiments were 
attended with such uniform success that it has 
been thought desirable to have a Flower Depart- 
ment prepared for the use of the amateur, or for 
those who have limited areas to cultivate, and yet 
wish to enjoy the beauty and fragrance of home- 
grown flowers. 

No one need be deterred from attempting to 
grow flowers successfully because of limited 
space, or because of unfavorable conditions, for 
there is such a wide range for selection, that it 
would seem as if plants may be chosen that are 
suited to thrive in almost any condition of soil, 
exposure, etc. Of course many varieties require 
plenty of sunshine, but there are others which do 
equally well when shaded. Some varieties need 
plenty of room, and do best when isolated, or as 
single specimens. Others thrive when somewhat 
crowded. So there is ample opportunity to 
choose those adapted to varied conditions. 

No specific plans can be given, as each location 
has its own peculiar conditions of surroundings, 
extent, and exposure. In planning for planting, 

97 



98 THE GAEDENETTE 

the open space should be in the center. Screens 
may be arranged along boundaries or buildings. 
In these screens, the tall-growing plants should 
be in the rear: medium sized next, and dwarf va- 
rieties in front. 

In angles and corners, groups may be arranged, 
and in the open spaces, a few — not many — single 
specimens of tropical growth may be planted with 
good effect. Avoid, in planning, if possible, all 
purely geometrical effects. Rather imitate na- 
ture. The best designs are those where all ap- 
pearance of design is concealed. Unsightly ob- 
jects, sheds, fences, rocks, walls, etc., may be 
concealed by the use of clinging or festooning 
vines, or by suitable shrubbery. Vines do not 
appear at their best when planted in the open, 
even if supported by stakes or posts. Their 
proper place is against walls, or fences, or over 
verandas where they can spread broadly. Cling- 
ing vines such as Boston ivy (Ampelopsis veitchii) 
may only be trained over stone or brick walls. 
On wood they are damaging. Flowering plants 
or vines set near buildings require frequent water- 
ings, as they are deprived of a large part of the 
natural rainfall. Nooks and shady corners are 
suitable for ferns, pansies, lilies of the valley, 
tuberous-rooted begonias, and violets. These do 
best in partial shade. For massed beds, some va- 
rieties seem best in single colors, such as gerani- 
ums and salvias. Other flowers are fine in mixed 
colors, such as asters, zinnias, verbenas, pansies, 
and poppies. 

While roses are universal favorites, the grower 
must be prepared to fight scale, mildew, beetles, 




NASTURTIUMS. 




HOME OF THE GARDENETTE. 



FLOWER GARDENING 99 

sings, and aphis. All these are readily controlled 
if prompt attention is given. Otherwise the 
plants will soon become diseased and unsightly. 
However, the satisfaction of having an abundance 
of these most beautiful and fragrant flowers, con- 
tinuously through the whole season, will amply 
repay the trouble and care necessary for success. 
It might be well to consider this in planting, and 
see that roses are set in accessible spots on ac- 
count of dusting, spraying and other care. 

For shade, or for screen porches, or verandas, 
plant clematis, large and small flowering, ipomea, 
Dutchman's pipe, climbing roses, and honey- 
suckles. They are usually quick-growing, and 
hardy, and usually free from disease and insects. 

For rich, damp soils, try the eulalias, gracil- 
lima, zebrina, and variegata. They show best in 
single clumps, and require considerable room. 

For ease of culture, and great profusion of 
bloom, for cut flowers, plant hardy perennials. 
Once established, they flourish year after year 
with very little care or attention. In this class 
are dicentras, hardy phlox, shasta daisy, golden 
glow, hardy perennial poppies, iris, peonies, and 
columbine. For early spring blooming, hardy 
bulbs, that are planted in October, such as tulips, 
hyacinths, crocus, and daffodils, are indispensable. 
But in the spring, these beds should be planted, in 
between the rows of bulbs, with gladiolus, tube- 
roses, verbenas, petunias, asters, and zinnias, for 
succession and for blooms to cover the beds after 
the winter bulbs have died down. For flowering 
shrubs plant spirea von Houtii, wigelea, white 
or red, hydrangea arborescence, which is far su- 



100 THE GARDENETTE 

perior to the old hydrangea paniculata. These 
are hardy, and always graceful in form and beauti- 
ful in foliage. 

For hedges, American arbor vitas is especially 
fine. It is hardy, free from insects or disease, 
grows easily in almost all conditions, even in par- 
tial shade. Smoke, dust, and exposure to winds 
do not seem to injure it in any way. It can be 
sheared and kept in shape, and its dense foliage, 
being evergreen, is admirably adapted to loca- 
tions where screens or windbreaks are needed. 

California privet {Ligustrum ovalifolium) is 
also a very popular hedge plant, but it will hardly 
withstand very low temperatures. Fifteen de- 
grees below zero has been known to kill entire 
hedges. In the latitude of Tennessee and south- 
ward it should be perfectly hardy. Age gives it 
additional hardiness, but north of the Ohio River 
it is liable to be destroyed, if temperature runs 
too low. 

Rose hedges are beautiful, but require consid- 
erable attention. The roses used for this pur- 
pose are the climbing sorts, and such as American 
Pillar, pink, Dorothy Perkins, white, and Hia- 
watha, scarlet, are usually chosen. These are 
trained on a wire fence about two feet high, by 
interweaving, and then kept in shape by trim- 
ming. The results are found satisfactory. 

Spring planting is best for hedges. The 
ground should be deeply trenched and made rich 
by the addition of well-rotted manure mixed with 
sand or street scrapings or compost. A heavy 
mulch of coarse manure, leaves and litter placed 
closely about the roots will help. Do not expose 



FLOWER GARDENING 101 

the roots of the arbor vita? to the sun and drying 
winds, for the resinous roots are easily killed by 
too much exposure to the air. Observe the same 
care with the roses, and after setting, cut them 
back to about eight inches. All need frequent 
watering until growth begins. 

For edging use Madame Saleroi geranium, 
coleus, alternanthera, ageratum, aerva sanguina 
(blood leaf), or sweet alyssum, Little Gem. 
Coleus may need clipping, which only adds to its 
great beauty. 

For the center of circular beds of tall-growing 
plants, try Ricinus Zanzibariensis, the largest and 
most beautiful of the castor beans. For the cen- 
ter of lower-growing plants the tall-growing 
cannas are satisfactory. For single specimens, 
standing alone, caladium is very effective. 

In the pages following, cultural directions are 
given for the management of a large number of 
plants. From these, and others, selections may 
be made to suit a great variety of conditions. 
The amateur, however, should avoid attempting 
too great a variety at first, remembering that 
overcrowding often hinders success. 

SOILS AND PREPARATION 

It is obvious that in the average backyard of a 
city lot, there can be no choice of soils or other 
conditions. It is simply a case of "that or none." 
Fortunately, selections of plants may be made to 
suit almost any conditions. The soil, however, 
should be well drained, and rich. The "Modified 
Sandwich Bed" will be found very satisfactory. 
For single specimens, where giant growth is de- 



102 THE GARDENETTE 

sired, the Post Hole hills will be found effective. 
Where practicable, the genuine Sandwich Beds 
will always give excellent results, even if con- 
structed on poor, stony or clayey soils, where suc- 
cess by other methods seems hopeless. This is 
equally true on adobe, alkali, or sand. Where 
strong alkali exists, first place a layer of corn- 
fodder three inches deep. On top of this, con- 
struct the regular Sandwich Bed, and it will suc- 
ceed. 

CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

Ageratum. Annual. Height, five to twelve 
inches. Colors, white and blue. Grown from 
seed. Used for cut flowers, edging, and massing 
in beds. Can be easily transplanted. 

Sow in rich soil as soon as danger of frost is 
over, and press soil down firm over the seed. 
Thin out, or transplant to eight inches apart. 

Sweet Alyssum. Annual. Height, six to eight 
inches. Color, white. Grown from seed. Very 
fragrant. Easily transplanted. Used for cut 
flowers and edging. 

Sow in rich soil after danger of frost is over. 

Asters. Annual. Height, twelve to thirty 
inches or more. Colors, all shades. Grown from 
seed. [Used for massing, and for cut flowers. Is 
easily transplanted. Insect enemies, the blister 
beetle. Spray before and after their arrival with 
strong hellebore tea, or with slug shot. 

Sow seed in shallow boxes in rich soil. A sunny 
window, in a room not too warm, is better than 
greenhouse conditions. The first sowings may be 
made in February, if very early blooms are 




PLAN OF FLOWER GARDEN. SUNDIAL IN CENTF.K. 



iiviiR \.\<;k.\ ARBORESCENCE gr wimilora. 

"HTLLS oh' SNOW." 



FLOWER GARDENING 103 

wanted. Sowings may be continued at intervals 
till June — the later ones in the open ground. 
This will give a fine succession of flowers during 
the entire season. 

When the seedlings have attained a third leaf, 
they may be transplanted into other similar boxes, 
lifting the small plants with a sharpened splinter. 
This gives the plants more room, and checks the 
tendency to ''damp off" when the young plants 
are crowded in the first seed bed. It also insures 
more stocky and robust plants. If set three 
inches apart, each way, they may be held until 
suitable weather permits planting in the open 
ground. For constant blooms, plantings should 
be made at intervals of three weeks. Later plant- 
ings may be made in a seed bed in the open ground, 
about May 10, or a little later. The soil must be 
rich and mellow. The little seedlings should be 
shaded by muslin screens, supported on stakes 
about twelve inches high. 

The genuine Sandwich Beds are ideal for 
asters. If these are not practicable, then try the 
Modified Sandwich Bed. If a layer of sandy 
compost be placed on top of the bed, and made 
firm and smooth, the plants will thrive and bloom 
in a way that will be very gratifying. 

The small Tom Thumb varieties are set six 
inches apart. Medium sizes ten inches, and large 
growing varieties twelve inches apart. A mulch 
of fine manure will be found beneficial. 

Semple's Branching are sure to give satisfac- 
tion. The blooms have long stems, which make 
them ideal for cut flowers. For late blooms, it is 
unsurpassed. For early blooms, try Queen of the 



104 THE GARDENETTE 

Market. For variety, and different colors, try 
fine mixed seed, offered by any reliable seedsman. 

Tall growing varieties will be benefited by giv- 
ing them support by the use of stakes, to which all 
or part of the plant may be tied. This will pre- 
vent draggling, in wet, windy weather. 

Aquilegia (Columbine). Hardy perennial. 
Height, two to three feet. Grown from seed. 
Long stems suitable for cut flowers. Plant for 
borders, and around rock work. Easily trans- 
planted. 

Sow seeds in rich soil, out of doors, after dan- 
ger of frost is over. Thin as it becomes neces- 
sary. When the plants are large enough, trans- 
plant to permanent bed. Suitable for shady 
places. There are many new and desirable varie- 
ties of recent introduction. 

Achillea. Hardy perennial. Height, one to 
two feet. Grown from seed. Suitable for cut 
flowers. Has long stems. Flowers double, pure 
white. Easily transplanted. Does well in 
masses or for borders. Sow seed and manage 
same as columbine. 

Anemone. Hardy perennial. Height, one to 
three feet. Many colors. Grown from seed. 
Easily transplanted. Suitable for masses, bor- 
ders, and shady places. Sow seed and manage 
same as columbine. 

Balsams. Tender annual. Height, ten to 
thirty inches. Many colors. Grown from seed. 
Easily transplanted. Sow seed in rich soil as 
soon as frosts are over, and transplant to perma- 
nent beds, setting plants fifteen inches apart. 
Great improvement has been made in this old- 



FLOWER GARDENING 105 

fashioned flower in the last few years. Camelia 
Flowered, and New Goliah are types of the high- 
est development. 

Begonia. Tender perennial. Begonias are di- 
vided into two classes — fibrous rooted, and 
tuberous rooted. The fibrous rooted are mainly 
grown for their foliage, the tuberous rooted for 
their very handsome single and double flowers. 
Height, one foot. Many colors. Suitable for 
shady places, but must have very rich soil. 

C 'anna Indica (Indian Shot). Annual. Height, 
thirty inches to eight feet. Flowers, many col- 
ors. Foliage, green or bronze. Grown from seed 
or divided clumps or roots. The latter is more 
satisfactory. If seeds are sown, first pierce the 
shell in at least one place, then soak in warm 
water until they show evidence of swelling; then 
sow in sandy loam. When second leaf is formed, 
pot off singly, and keep in a warm, sunny window 
until warm weather is assured. When divided 
roots are used, start in sandy soil in boxes in 
March, and keep them in a warm place. 

For single specimens, use the tall growing va- 
rieties, such as Louisiana, or Wyoming, which 
have green foliage, or King Humbert, or New 
York, which have bronze or purple foliage. All 
have magnificent blooms. 

The soil must be very rich, and somewhat 
sandy. Post hole hills produce extra fine speci- 
mens, if given frequent waterings. For bedding, 
it is customary to arrange one tall-growing plant 
in the center: next plant six cannas in a circle, 
eighteen inches apart. For each succeeding cir- 
cle it will require six more plants than were used 



106 THE GARDENETTE 

on the next preceding circle. Each circle should 
be of one variety, and not quite so tall as the one 
next within. The dwarf varieties should be used 
in the outside circle. Small beds may be all of 
the same variety. A row of the tall-growing 
cannas forms a beautiful background or screen. 
This plant is not subject to attacks of fungi, in- 
sects, or diseases. The conditions necessary for 
success with cannas, are a very rich soil, and 
plenty of water and sunshine. 

Late in autumn, about the time of the first light 
frosts, cut off the stems, leaving eight or ten 
inches. Dig up the clumps, allowing some of the 
dirt to adhere to the roots, and store them in a 
cool, dry cellar where it does not freeze. Pack 
the clumps closely, and sift over them and be- 
tween the clumps, sand or compost. Water very 
sparingly once a month. 

In early spring, say about the first of March, 
divide the clumps to one or two eyes, and plant 
pretty closely, in boxes, and set them in a warm 
sunny place. The boxes should not be too large, 
or they will be hard to handle. Keep the soil 
damp, but not wet. The new growth should be 
one or two feet high at the proper season for 
planting out in the open. 

Caladium. This is a bulbous plant, but is 
placed here for the reason that it is usually grown 
out-of-doors as a single specimen for its showy 
tropical foliage. It is sometimes planted, for the 
same reason, near streams or ponds. It is grown 
from bulbs, usually procured from florists, and 
the bulbs should be two or more inches in diame- 
ter. Bulbs three inches in diameter will produce 



FLOWER GARDENING 107 

good specimens. Plant in very rich soil on Post 
Hole Hills, and water regularly. Take up the 
bulbs before frosts in autumn, dry off, and pack 
in dry sand, and keep on a shelf in a warm, dry 
room. Do not plant out-of-doors until cold or 
frosty weather is past. The bulbs need not be 
"started." 

Chrysanthemums. Perennial. Height, one to 
three feet. Colors in variety, but white, yellow 
and pink predominate. The original type was 
yellow, hence its name, which means, "golden 
flowers." It is especially desirable for cut flow- 
ers, and for potting, for late indoor blooming. 
It is usually grown from rooted cuttings, but may 
be grown from seed. The former method will 
be found most satisfactory. 

Procure plants from a florist, in March, and 
plant singly in six-inch pots or small, wooden 
boxes, and after liberal watering, set in a sunny, 
but moderately • cool place. While chrysanthe- 
mums are indoors, they are subject to attacks of 
Aphis. For these, syringe with strong tobacco 
tea. About the middle of May, "plunge" the 
pots in soil in beds in the garden. "Plunging" 
is setting the pot in the soil so that the top of it 
is level with the ground. Chrysanthemums make 
slow growth at first, but should be watered regu- 
larly, and to prevent the formation of roots out- 
side the pot, it is necessary to give the pot, plant 
and all, an occasional turn, without lifting it out 
of the ground. Do this once in three weeks. If 
this is neglected, the roots will penetrate the soil 
through the drainage hole, and the plants will 
wither when taken up in the fall. The object is 



108 THE GAEDENETTE 

to confine all the roots to the soil inside the pot. 

After the plants have begun to grow vigorously, 
they must be watered very frequently, but in 
moderation. 

When the plants are a foot high, the terminal 
bud should be pinched out. This at once stops 
upward growth, and starts side branches. These 
in turn should be topped in the same manner. 
Continue this topping until the middle of Au- 
gust, but not later. At the same time, trim out 
the slender shoots, and trim the plant so as to 
bring it to a symmetrical shape. 

When frosts are due, remove the plant, pot and 
all, to a cool sunny room. Water moderately. 
Watch the foliage for Aphis. If above direc- 
tions are carefully followed, there will be an 
abundance of fine blooms which will continue for 
many weeks. 

For varieties, consult florists' catalogs. There 
is a wide range to select from, and all tastes can 
be suited. 

Cosmos. Annual. Height three to six feet. 
Variety of colors. Used for cut flowers in late 
summer and autumn. It is grown from seed. 
For early planting, sow in shallow boxes, and 
transplant when danger of frost is over. For 
later planting, sow seed in the open ground, and 
transplant where wanted. They will continue 
blooming even after light frosts. Set plants 
twelve to eighteen inches apart. 

Clematis. Hardy perennial, climber. Height 
twelve to twenty feet. Colors, Jackmanii, violet 
purple. Henrii, snow white. Madam Edouard 
Andre, bright crimson. These are all large flow- 



FLOWER GARDENING 109 

ered. Paniculata has small, star shaped, white 
flowers, in greatest profusion. These vines are 
used to shade and screen verandas, for which 
purpose they are well adapted, but they must be 
allowed to climb on wire netting. 

All varieties may be grown from seed, but to 
save time, it is usual to purchase two-year-old 
plants. The Jackmanii class have thick fleshy 
roots, and must be handled with greatest care 
to insure success. The best location is on the 
north side of a building, where the soil is some- 
what moist. Make a small, conical mound in the 
bottom of the hole, when planting, and place the 
plant on the apex of the mound, allowing the roots 
to slope in all directions, down the side of the 
mound. Fill with sandy soil and compost, and 
water moderately but frequently. The Panicu- 
lata has fibrous roots, and can be planted just 
as any other hardy perennial. Two-thirds of the 
vines should be cut away in November. All va- 
rieties are perfectly hardy. 

Cypress Vine. Annual, climber. Height ten 
to fifteen feet. Colors, white and scarlet. Used 
for shading porches, or trained on trellises for 
screens. Grown from seed. Seed should be 
soaked over night in luke warm water, and planted 
in the open ground when danger of frost is over. 
Transplant when large enough. For screens, set 
five or six inches apart. The soil should be rich. 
Wire netting makes a fine support, but cypress 
vine will readily climb a single stake, or a string. 
The fern-like foliage is very attractive. 

Centaurea {Dusty Miller). Perennial. Height 
twelve to eighteen inches. Grown for its silvery 



110 THE GAKDENETTE 

foliage. Used in hanging baskets, vases, rock- 
eries, and shady places. Grown from seed, and 
transplants easily. There are several varieties; 
the Gymnocarpa is the foliage plant. 

Cinnamon Vine. Hardy perennial, climber. 
The roots remain in the ground for years, but the 
tops die down to the ground at the end of every 
season. Height twelve to twenty-five feet. Flow- 
ers small, white, and very fragrant. It is used 
for screening and shading verandas, or trained 
on wire trellises for screens. It is grown from 
plants, which may be procured from florists. 
Buy only two-year-old plants, and set in early 
spring. This plant is free from disease, or at- 
tacks of insects. 

Dahlia. Tuberous, annual. Height two to six 
feet. Colors in great variety. Used for borders, 
and for cut flowers. Can be grown from seed, 
when they will, if started early enough, bloom the 
first season. Great variety of flowers occurs when 
grown from seed. They are best when grown 
from tubers. They may be also propagated by 
rooted cuttings. Seeds are sown in flats, early 
in the spring, and transplanted to the open ground 
when settled warm weather is assured. 

Tubers should be started early, in boxes of 
sandy soil, laying the tubers over on their side, 
and covering three inches deep. They require a 
warm, sunny place, otherwise they will be slow 
in starting. 

If a number of shoots start from the same 
tuber, rub off all but the sturdiest one. When 
this is six inches high, cut it off above the second 
joint. This will cause the plant to throw out four 



FLOWER GARDENING 111 

side branches, and assure a stocky and symmetri- 
cal plant. 

Transplant in very rich beds, when warm, set- 
tled weather is assured, giving light and frequent 
waterings until they get well started. Dahlias 
must not be planted too close together. Three 
feet each way is about the right distance. Rank 
growing varieties should be supported by tying 
them to strong stakes, driven firmly into the 
ground. Pretty severe thinning of the weaker 
branches will help the plant to stand erect. The 
conditions for complete success are rich soil, and 
plenty of sunshine. In autumn, before hard 
freezes set in, cut off the stalks, leaving stubs six 
or eight inches long. Dig the tubers carefully, 
and pack in boxes in dry sand, and store in a 
frost proof cellar. They should not be allowed 
to get too dry, but must not be kept excessively 
wet. An occasional light sprinkling will answer. 

Digitalis {Foxglove). Hardy perennial. 
Height three to four feet. Various colors. Seeds 
should be sown out-of-doors as soon as the ground 
is in good condition. Easily transplanted. Do 
not crowd them. They succeed well among shrub- 
bery, or in masses. Used for cut flowers. When 
the center spikes begin to fade they should be cut 
out, and the side shoots will grow more vigor- 
ously, and keep up a profusion of flowers for a 
long time. 

Delphinium (Larkspur). Annual and peren- 
nial. Height one to four feet. Used for massing, 
borders, or among shrubbery. Fine for cut flow- 
ers. Great variety of colors. Easily cultivated, 
and adapted to many conditions. Seed may be 



112 THE GAEDENETTE 

sown in the spring or fall, — preferably the latter. 
Thin plants to eight or ten inches for annuals, 
and two to three feet for perennials. All varie- 
ties have clean, attractive foliage, and the blooms 
are dazzling. 

Dianthus (Pinks). Two classes, annuals and 
perennials. Both are hardy. The annuals often 
give very fine blooms the second year, and the 
perennials often bloom profusely the first year. 
Both are rapid growers. Height twelve to fif- 
teen inches. All colors. Used for massing, and 
for cut flowers. The perennial is sometimes 
called "Clove or Spice Pinks." Both are grown 
from seed sown in the open ground, where they 
are to remain. Thin and transplant for an even 
stand. These low growing plants are so easy to 
grow and are so very satisfactory that they de- 
serve a place in every flower garden. 

Ferns. Hardy perennials. Height eight inches 
to two feet. They are planted solely for their 
foliage. They are grown best from plants, which 
can be procured from florists. They are best 
adapted to damp, shady nooks, or corners, espe- 
cially on the north sides of buildings. They re- 
quire a soil rich in humus — decaying vegetable 
matter — and need to be watered often. Hardy 
ferns need little or no protection, though a light 
covering with leaves in late autumn will be a 
benefit. The tender class or "parlor ferns" are 
not suitable for out-door planting. 

In many localities beautiful native ferns may 
be found. They are easily transplanted in early 
spring, and are very well adapted to ornamental 
planting. 



FLOWER GARDENING 113 

Geraniums. Tender perennial. Height eight 
to twenty-four inches. Variety of colors. This 
is a greenhouse or parlor plant, and is only con- 
sidered here because of its value as a bedding 
plant, for masses of color, borders, and edging. 
These can be grown from seeds, but are more 
satisfactory when grown from rooted cuttings. 
For bedding, use bright colors, such as General 
Grant, orange-scarlet, single, and S. A. Nutt, bril- 
liant crimson-scarlet, double. These are espe- 
cially good for bedding, and are a type of the 
best class for bedding purposes. For edging, try 
Madame Saleroi; bright green leaves edged with 
white, and of dwarf habit. 

Gladiolus. Tender bulbs. Height two to three 
feet or even more. A great variety of colors. 
Used for cut flowers. Generally grown from ma- 
ture bulbs. It requires a year for bulblets, size 
of a pea, to reach blooming size. 

Fine bulbs of blooming size can be obtained 
from florists and seedsmen. Plant the bulbs six 
inches apart, and four inches deep. Planting 
should begin about the middle of April, and be 
continued at intervals till the first of June. This 
will give constant bloom till frost. If planted 
too shallow, they are apt to break down. This 
may be avoided by tying each stalk to a light 
stake before the break-down occurs. Deep plant- 
ing helps. 

Great improvement in varieties has been made 
in the last few years. For varieties try Amer- 
ica, pink, Augusta, white, Canary Bird, yellow, 
Princeps, scarlet. Gladioli do especially fine on 
the Modified Sandwich Beds. The name of this 



114 THE GAEDENETTE 

beautiful flower is often mispronounced: notice 
that the accent is on the second syllable and not 
on the third. 

Hydrangea. Hardy perennial shrub. Height 
four to eight feet. Color, white. Blooms prac- 
tically all summer. Used as single specimens, or 
for back-ground. Hydrangeas are of two kinds, 
hardy and tender. Only the hardy are considered 
here. Procure strong stocky bushes from a florist 
or nurseryman. There are several varieties, but 
the new Arborescence or "Hills of Snow" is so 
far ahead of the old Paniculata Grandiflora, that 
it is the only one I should recommend. These are 
very easy to grow, and immensely satisfactory. 

Honeysuckle. Hardy perennial, trailing vine. 
Height six to twelve feet. Various colors. Used 
for trellises, pillars, walls and rockwork. Grown 
from rooted plants. Used for cut flowers-. Some 
of the honeysuckles are nearly evergreen. They 
are free from insects or disease. They grow 
easily almost anywhere. Evergreen sweet- 
scented is a very desirable variety, bearing flow- 
ers both yellow and white. 

Iris. Hardy perennial. This is a bulbous or 
tuberous plant. Height one to two feet. Great 
variety of colors. Used for planting in borders. 
Fine for cut flowers. Usually grown from bulbs 
procured from a florist. Easily grown and seems 
to improve from year to year. The dwarf pur- 
ple, and the dwarf white, are diminutive in size, 
being six to eight inches high, and are sometimes 
used for edging. 

Kochia. Annual. Height twenty-four to thirty 
inches. Foliage, light green, changing to car- 




TYPES OF GLADIOLI. 



j** \ -MM. 


•* 1 

ft 

v 


^T 


2i 


B&4& 


"1 






t 


EStfiUVv 




s?^* 


. 


<&V; ' 




™ -, 


' : j | 


^ / '.• ' 




if 


^.^ 


idtim^ 


&-r* 










v-f 


J 


•-CJJ 


smMIBI^: ^ •.. ,, i^tKT 


-' 'B"*i 


■j^fe, '"■ 


l^*«w 


^^ * 


,, ^B 




"'* Tj* 


jyjpp 1 




• : V-. • 


;.'t\ >. . 




ifeM 


$S#m 





FLOWERS IN VARIETY. 




EARLY PLANTS IN COLD FRAME. 



FLOWER GARDENING 115 

mine or blood red. The plants are of pleasing 
globe or oval shape, and very symmetrical. Flow- 
ers inconspicuous. This plant is grown for its 
foliage, single specimens, or in hedgerows. The 
beauty of the plant is its shape and color. Grown 
from seed, and easily transplanted. Seed may 
be sown in boxes for early planting. They may 
be also sown in the open ground after danger of 
frost is past, and then transplanted where they 
are to grow. 

Liliums. Hardy bulbs. There are many va- 
rieties but only the hardy ones for out-door plant- 
ing are considered here. The following will be 
satisfactory. Auratum (Gold Band Lily of 
Japan), Longifolium (White Garden Lily), Spe- 
ciosum Album, white; Speciosum Rubruni, red; 
Speciosum Melpomene, crimson: Speciosum 
Magnificum, rich red, spotted. Most of the lily 
bulbs are imported, and do not usually arrive un- 
til late, sometimes not until November. They 
should be planted as soon as they are received. 
Packed in sand they may be kept until spring, 
and then planted, as soon as the frost is out of 
the ground, that is, if they are received too late 
for fall planting. The soil should be rich, and 
deep. Set the bulbs six inches deep, and surround 
each bulb with pure sand. Once planted, they re- 
main in the ground and will bloom for years with- 
out replanting. In the fall, mulch slightly with 
coarse manure. 

Lily of the Valley. Hardy perennial. Sweet, 
delicate and graceful. Height six to eight inches. 
Color white. Used for cut flowers in bouquets. 
Grown from pips or bulblets. Plant in rich soil 



116 THE GARDENETTE 

in partial shade. Plant in early spring, six inches 
apart each way. They soon form a dense mat 
and nourish with little care from year to year. 

Mignonette. Annual. Height one to two feet. 
Various colors. Used for cut flowers because of 
its rich fragrance. Grown from seed. Sow in 
good soil where they are to stand, in April, and 
at intervals till June for a succession. Thin to 
six inches apart and pinch out the top when the 
plant is two inches high. This will insure sturdy 
plants and an abundance of fine blooms. 

Nasturtiums. Annual. Dwarf and climbing 
varieties. Height of dwarf, twelve to twenty- 
four inches. Climbing sorts reach a height of six 
to eight feet. Colors in variety. Used for mass- 
ing, rock work, and also for cut flowers for table 
decoration. They are grown from seed. Can be 
transplanted. For early, sow seed in a shallow 
box, cover one-half inch deep, and press soil down 
firmly, water, and set in warm, sunny place. 
Transplant in the open ground when settled warm 
weather is assured. This treatment is suited to 
both the dwarf and climbing kinds. They do best 
in soil only moderately rich. Sow in the open 
ground in May. 

Peonies. Hardy perennial. Height two to 
three feet. Colors, white, pink, and crimson, with 
all intervening shades. Used for massing or sin- 
gle specimens. Fine for cut flowers. Grown 
from roots. They are best planted in autumn, 
but sometimes succeed if planted in the spring. 
In general practice the root-clumps are divided 
too small. The divisions are best if grown in 
nursery rows one or two years and then planted 



FLOWER GARDENING 117 

without further division. They require deep rich 
soil for best success, though they will grow any- 
where except on very wet soils. They must have 
plenty of room. Three or four feet apart is close 
enough. Do not plant too deep. They often 
bloom the first season after planting, but improve 
greatly each succeeding year. They are not 
troubled with diseases or insect pests. 

Pansy. Hardy biennial. Height six inches. 
All colors. Used in massing and for edging. 
Grown from seed. Sow in shallow boxes in rich 
soil very early in the spring. Thin to two inches 
apart in the box, and transplant to the open 
ground about the first of May or even earlier. 
For early flowering, plants grown in cold frames 
from seed sown in the fall, are best. These can 
be procured from florists. They do best in rich, 
moist soil, in partial shade, but do not thrive un- 
der trees. With slight protection they will win- 
ter over but young vigorous plants give the finest 
blooms. 

Petunia. Annual. Height ten to twenty-four 
inches. Many colors. Useful in massing. Grown 
from seeds. They succeed as house plants and 
bloom freely in a sunny window. Sow seed in 
the open ground early in the spring. Thin and 
transplant when large enough. The flowers are 
single, double, ruffled, and striped, and the ease 
with which they can be grown makes them uni- 
versal favorites. 

Phlox (Drummondi). Annual. Height eight 
to twenty inches. Colors in great variety. Used 
for waste places, borders and massing. Fine for 
cut flowers. This is a native of Texas, and is of 



118 THE GAEDENETTE 

very easy cultivation and is sure to be satisfac- 
tory. Seed may be sown in the open as early 
as the ground will do to work. Do not crowd 
them. Surplus plants may be easily transplanted. 

Perennial phlox are grown from clumps, which 
are procured from florists. They are perfectly 
hardy, and, once established, will flourish and 
bloom from year to year. The soil should be 
rich. Occasional watering in dry weather will be 
an advantage. A light mulch of manure should 
be given late in autumn. Phlox are free from 
disease and insects. They are very easily grown, 
very profuse bloomers, through the entire season, 
and are indispensable in eveiy garden. 

Poppy. Annual. Height two feet. Variety of 
colors. Used in massing. Flowers are double 
and single. Grown from seeds sown where they 
are to remain, as they are hard to transplant. 
In thinning, do not pull up the plants, but pinch 
them off at the surface of the ground, as pulling 
disturbs the roots of those plants that are to re- 
main. Two or three sowings will give a succes- 
sion of flowers. Perennial poppies are hardy, 
and continue to thrive and bloom for some years 
without further trouble, after being once started. 
They are somewhat taller than most of the an- 
nual poppies, and the flowers can be used for cut- 
ting. Sow seed same as the annuals. They some- 
times bloom the first season. 

Roses. Perennial. Shrubs and climbers. 
Shrubs grow two to six feet high. Great variety 
of colors. Used for beds, masses, single speci- 
mens, and for hedges and screens. Eoses are un- 
surpassed for cut flowers. Grown from rooted 




PANSIES FROM THE GARDENETTE. 




toknTIIY PERKINS CLIMBING ROSE 



FLOWER GARDENING 119 

cuttings. They are also budded, in which case the 
hardy wild varieties are used for stock. Many 
kinds are tender, and will not stand freezing, 
while others are quite hardy, even under trying- 
conditions. Only the hardy and half-hardy sorts 
are considered here. In bush or shrub roses there 
are the Hardy Hybrid Perpetual, and the Half- 
hardy Hybrid Teas. Additional classification 
serves only to confuse the amateur. Hybrid Per- 
petuals are hardy under all ordinary circum- 
stances. They are "perpetual" in the sense of 
continuing to bloom more or less constantly from 
June until frost. As a rule they are not as 
fragrant as the Teas or the Hybrid Teas. 

Roses require a rich deep soil. Clay seems to 
suit them best. As roses are to remain per- 
manently where they are first set, the soil should 
receive extra attention. 

Plants grown from cuttings, that is, plants on 
their own roots, are preferred to budded stock, 
for even if winterkilled to the ground, the former 
will throw up strong shoots which will produce 
blooms of the same kind. Whereas, if budded 
stock is so injured, the shoots will likely be from 
wild stock, and the flowers will be disappointing. 
This is true of all classes of roses. It is therefore 
best to avoid all budded stock. To some degree 
this trouble in budded stock may be avoided by 
deep planting ; also by hilling up with soil around 
the plants late in autumn. The hilling up with 
soil is very beneficial in many ways, and should 
never be neglected. 

In early spring spray your roses thoroughly 
with standard lime-sulphur solution, diluted 



120 THE GARDENETTE 

twenty to one with cold water. Repeat after ten 
days. This is for San Jose and other scale. Soon 
after the leaves are out, give them thorough 
sprayings with strong hellebore tea. Two or three 
applications at intervals of a week will keep the 
green worm, which defoliates the plant, in subjec- 
tion. Paris green, one part, to water twenty 
parts, will also be found efficient, but it is more 
dangerous. Mildew which shows a grayish-white 
film on the affected leaves, can be kept in check 
by frequent sprayings with Bordeaux Mixture di- 
luted, one pint to six pints of water. Mildew is 
the worst enemy of the rose, and the hardest to 
combat. For Aphis, or plant lice, spray with 
strong tobacco tea. 

In the class of Hybrid Tea Roses are found some 
of the most beautiful roses in existence. Besides 
their wonderful beauty, they are usually "ever- 
blooming," that is they bloom at short intervals 
throughout the season. For best success and per- 
fection of flowers, the blooms should be cut when 
in bud, and seed pods should be removed as soon 
as formed. Encourage the growth of new wood, 
for only on these are the flowers formed. Cut 
back the branches that have ceased blooming. 

Purchase two-year-old plants, those grown on 
their own roots preferred, and set two feet apart 
in beds that have been spaded deep, and well en- 
riched. Prune rather severely, and mulch the en- 
tire bed heavily with coarse manure. The mulch- 
ing is highly important. They will need consid- 
erable water, but the soil must not be made soggy. 

In late autumn the bushes may be taken up and 
stored in moist sand in a box, in a cool cellar, and 



FLOWER GARDENING 



121 



replanted in the spring, after severe pruning. 
But they may be easily protected in the bed by 
first bending the stems so they will lie flat on the 
ground. Then place a layer of evergreen boughs 
on them, and on the boughs place inverted sods, 
being careful to cover the roots and all the stems. 
Remove the covering late in the spring, just as 
growth commences, being careful to uncover grad- 
ually. 

A list of desirable varieties is here given, 
merely as a guide to the amateur. 

TWELVE HYBRID PERPETUALS 



American Beauty, 
Paul Neyron, 
Ball of Snow, 
Gen'l Jacqueminot, 
Glorie Lyonnaise, 
Clio, 

Marshall P. Wilder, 
Ulrich B runner, 
Magna Charta, 
Frau Karl Druschki, 
Mine. Chas. Wood, 
Hugh Dickson, 



crimson 

clear pink, large 
pure white 
crimson 
nearly yellow 
lovely flesh color 
deep red 
crimson scarlet 
bright pink 
pure white 
cherry red 
brilliant crimson 



TWELVE HYBRID TEAS AND TEAS 

All of these are the hardiest of their class. 
Helen Gould, 



Helena Gambier, 
White Maman Cochet, 
Jonkheer J. L. Mock, 
Etoile De Lyon, 
Maman Cochet, 



crimson 
canary yellow 
white 

carmine pink 
golden yellow 
coral pink 



122 THE GARDENETTE 

Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria, white 
Mrs. A. R. "Waddell, coppery red 
Ecarlate, scarlet 
LaFrance, pink 
Hermosa, bright pink 
Meteor, bright crimson 

Climbing roses should be chosen for hardiness. 
General management for climbers just the same 
as other roses. Not many of the hardy climbing 
roses are everbloomers. Most of them bloom but 
once in a season. The new Climbing American 
Beauty is said to be hardy, or at least half-hardy, 
and a constant bloomer. Climbing Baby Ram- 
bler is ever blooming, but nearly all of the ever- 
bloomers among climbers will be killed by severe 
winters. Among the June bloomers are such as 
Prairie Queen, Seven Sisters, Tennessee Belle, 
Baltimore Belle and Crimson Rambler and a few 
others that are truly hardy. 

The Rugosa class has beautiful foliage, oddly 
wrinkled and is very ornamental. Some are sin- 
gle, others double; all very fragrant. These are 
of iron-clad hardiness. 

The Wichuraiana class will climb if trained; 
otherwise they trail on the ground. Suitable for 
training over rocks, stumps and unsightly objects. 
Nearly Evergreen. They bloom in June and 
July, and are perfectly hardy. 

Ricinus (Castor Bean). Annual. Height ten 
to fifteen feet. Grown for its foliage. Used as 
a center of groups of tall-growing plants. Grown 
from seeds, which should be started in pots in Feb- 



FLOWER GARDENING 123 

ruary or March, and transplanted after danger 
of frosts is past, to place where they are to re- 
main. For gigantic size, plant them on a post- 
hole hill, and give frequent watering. The au- 
thor has grown specimens over fifteen feet high 
by these methods. The Zanzibariensis is by far 
the finest and best variety. 

Salvia (Flowering Sage). Annual. Height 
two to three feet. Color, most vivid shades of 
red. There are also white and blue varieties, but 
the red is most used and admired. Used for 
massing, single specimens, and hedges. Grown 
from seed. Start the seed in a box in March, and 
transplant to the open ground when warm weather 
is assured. 

Sweet Pea. Hardy annual. Vines grow to 
height of three to five feet. Colors in wonderful 
variety. Used for cut flowers. Very fragrant. 
Grown from seed. These are sown in a trench 
about four inches deep, very early in the spring, 
not later than February or March, the earlier the 
better. Cover at first about two inches, later 
draw in the soil until it is level. The usual mis- 
take in sowing sweet peas is to get them too thick. 
Four inches apart is plenty close enough — five 
inches is better. Before planting, the trench 
should be spaded very deep and made rich with 
well rotted manure. The trench is best prepared 
in the fall. Do not plant sweet peas near build- 
ings nor under trees. As soon as they are up, 
stake at once or give support with wire netting. 
Cut flowers freely, and keep seed pods pinched off. 

Verbena. Half-hardy perennial. Height twelve 
inches. Procumbent. Variety of brilliant colors 



124 THE GABDENETTE 

and shades, of white, scarlet, red, crimson and 
purple. Used for massing. For this purpose, the 
scarlet is especially popular. Mixed colors are 
also favored. Most seedlings are fragrant. 
Grown from seed and also from cuttings or lay- 
ers. Seedlings are most vigorous and satisfac- 
tory. Sow seeds in boxes in March and plant 
about twelve inches apart in the open ground 
about the first of May. 

Zinnia. Annual. Height twelve to thirty 
inches. Great variety of colors. Used in masses, 
borders, and for cut flowers. Grown from seed, 
and easily transplanted. May be sown outside 
about May first, or for early, start in the house 
before that time. The soil need not be extra rich. 
Do not crowd the plants. Twelve inches or more 
each way, if choice flowers are wanted. They are 
so easily grown and so beautiful, that they de- 
serve a place in every flower garden. 

HARDY BULBS 

Only hardy bulbs, suitable for planting out 
doors, are considered here. For caladiums, can- 
nas, lilies, and gladioli, see directions given in 
the general collection of plants. 

Holland or Dutch gardeners are famous for 
their success in growing fine hyacinths, tulips, and 
similar bulbs. While climate and painstaking 
skill doubtless have much to do with their suc- 
cess, yet soil conditions appear, after all, to be 
the principal factors. 

The ideal soil is light or sandy, well-drained, 
rich, and containing much humus or decaying 
vegetable matter. The Standard and Modified 




- 



<\ 



~ Pi 
— < 



FLOWER GARDENING 125 

Sandwich Beds, with slight modifications, will 
produce results of the most satisfactory charac- 
ter. Because of depth of planting, the top layer 
of the compost or street scrapings needs to be 
about seven inches deep. Make this very rich by 
the addition of manure. That from cow-stable is 
preferred, as it is non-heating. The compost 
should be prepared in early summer, and the ma- 
terials in the heap should be thoroughly mixed by 
shoveling over several times. Remember that 
complete success depends upon having the soil 
just right. In using street scrapings, be sure to 
avoid streets that have been oiled, or that have 
asphalt or tar in their make-up. 

Crocuses are used in masses, or "naturalized," 
that is, they may be placed at random about the 
lawn, or near shrubbery, and then be allowed to 
remain for several years. They are planted in 
September or October. In masses, plant them 
three inches apart and two inches below the sur- 
face. In lawns, make a small hole with a gar- 
den trowel. They will finish blooming before the 
lawns need mowing in the spring. Crocuses are 
the first flowers of the season. 

Hyacinths. These should be planted six inches 
deep, and six to eight inches apart, in beds pre- 
pared as described above. They may be planted 
any time during September or October, or even 
later, in fact, any time before the ground is 
frozen. A sunny location is best. Sometimes 
when the bloom is heavy, the spikes blow over, 
or break down. This can be prevented by tying 
to light, strong stakes with a soft string. The 
colors run in shades of pink, blue, yellow, red 



126 THE GARDENETTE 

and white. The flowers are both double and sin- 
gle. The latter are usually the most satisfactory. 
They may be taken up after the plants die down, 
and be stored and replanted, but this scarcely 
pays. If left in the ground, they will bloom the 
second year, but the flowers may be inferior. 
After the second year, new bulbs should be pro- 
cured. A light mulch of leaves, put over hya- 
cinths in the fall, will be of advantage. 

Tulips. Cultural directions as given for hya- 
cinths will also apply to tulips, except that the 
bulbs should be set four inches apart, and four 
inches deep. They may remain undisturbed for 
two or three years, especially if the beds are pre- 
pared as described above. In purchasing bulbs, 
select a good grade, and buy of experienced, re- 
sponsible dealers. Cheap bulbs are pretty sure 
to be disappointing. 

Narcissus. Narcissus is the name of the spe- 
cies. Daffodils, jonquils, and Chinese sacred 
lily, are classes of narcissi. When narcissi are 
once planted they continue to grow and thrive 
for a number of years without renewing, but 
should be taken up and re-set, once in three years. 
Directions for planting are the same as for hya- 
cinths, except that they are planted six inches 
apart, and three inches deep. 

Paper white, polyanthus, and Chinese sacred 
lily are not hardy enough to plant out of doors, 
except in the extreme South. Poeticus is a small, 
white variety, that is sweet scented, and is often 
"naturalized." Jonquils are yellow, and are of 
iron-clad hardiness. 

Tuberose. Tuberoses are a species of lily, and 



FLOWER GARDENING 127 

are usually regarded as a greenhouse plant, but 
they may be grown very successfully out-of- 
doors. Their beauty and wonderful fragrance 
make them indispensable. They are grown from 
small bulblets, which are attached to the bulb, and 
which require to be grown in nursery beds one 
year before reaching blooming size. Select good 
sized bulbs, with well developed necks that are 
firm. If the necks are shrunken or spongy, they 
will not bloom. Plant the bulbs in five or six inch 
pots, setting so that the tops are covered one inch 
deep. Water sparingly, and keep them in a warm 
sunny place while they are forming roots. Pot 
a few at a time, at intervals of three weeks, be- 
ginning March first and continuing until June. 

About the middle of May the pots should be 
"plunged" in a sunny place in the garden. Water 
frequently. Tall growing varieties will need sup- 
port by staking. 

When they begin to bloom, the plants, pot and 
all, may be lifted, placed in jardiniers and re- 
moved to the house. When they are through 
blooming, the bulbs may as well be thrown away, 
as they bloom but once. There are several vari- 
eties, but the Dwarf Double Pearl is mostly 
grown. Double and single sorts may be had if 
desired. One variety has variegated leaves, but 
as it is not a foliage plant, this does not add to 
its value. 



THE WILD-FLOWER GARDEN 

IN the city back-yard it sometimes happens that 
there are shady corners, or narrow strips of 
ground along boundaries or fences, especially on 
shaded sides of buildings, which may be devoted 
to the growing of wild or native flowers. The 
Modified Sandwich Bed is the ideal prepara- 
tion for this purpose, using a compost rich in 
humus or decaying vegetable matter, such as 
leaves, lawn clippings, litter, etc. Partial shade 
is not detrimental, for most of the desirable plants 
will be found growing naturally in such condi- 
tions. 

A friend who owns a beautiful home in the city 
has such a wild-flower collection, which she calls 
her "Souvenir Garden." It is a narrow strip 
of ground, scarcely three feet wide, and five or 
six yards long, on the north side of the house, 
bordered on one side by a walk, and on the other 
side by an iron division fence. It is mostly in 
the shade, except in the early morning, and dur- 
ing a part of the afternoon. In this bed is 
planted a varied assortment of native flowers, 
picked up at picnics, visits to the country, and in 
rambles over the hills, and along the river. Some 
were found when on excursians, far from home: 
some by the roadside — anywhere and everywhere 
that they were met with. Only choice specimens 
were taken, and only one or two of a kind. Sev- 

128 




-*$$££&■ 







FORMAL PLAN OF FLOWER GARDEN. 
BORDER OF ANNUALS. 



FLOWER GARDENING 13i 

eral years were occupied in completing the col- 
lection. 

For a border, wild violets of several colors 
were used. No effort was made to follow any 
formal plan, but the plants were set promiscu- 
ously, as they were secured, and the result was 
most pleasing. 

There were clumps of columbine, black-eyed 
Susan, wild phlox, hepatica (Wild Liverwort), 
anemone, blue bells, golden rod, buttercups, wild 
asters, blue and white, trilliums, jack-in-the-pul- 
pit, bloodroot, Dutchman's breeches (Wild Di- 
centra), fringed gentian, lady's slipper, and 
many other beautiful plants and flowers. 

A few clumps of lily-of-the-valley might be 
added, and if desired, a sprinkling of crocus 
bulbs and hardy tulips would give brightness. 

These will give a constant succession of bloom. 
The plants named are nearly, if not all, peren- 
nial, and will re-seed themselves. They are ac- 
customed to maintain themselves in the struggle 
for existence, in their natural condition, and can 
be depended upon to look out for themselves, even 
when cultivated. 

A light mulch of leaves should be maintained, 
and grass and weeds should not be permitted to 
grow. 

By proper care, plants may be successfully 
moved at any season. As many of these plants 
can only be found during the growing reason, it 
is important that they be properly managed at 
the time of transplanting, to insure growth. 

The only tool necessary is a common garden 
trowel for digging. There should also be some 



130 THE GARDENETTE 

pieces of burlap or muslin, and twine for tying 
them up. Also some newspapers for wrapping. 

When the plant is found, dig carefully, pre- 
serving all the roots possible, and some soil ad- 
hering thereto. Dampen the cloths, and wrap the 
entire plant, after removing half the foliage. 
Now sprinkle with water until quite wet. Then 
wrap in two or three thicknesses of newspaper, 
and tie securely. Treated thus, they may be car- 
ried hundreds of miles with perfect safety. 

Plant, preferably in the evening, water well, and 
shade with an inverted box, or cover with news- 
papers weighted down at the corners. The plant 
boosters are ideal for this purpose. Water daily 
until the plants are well established. The pro- 
tection should be removed after three or four 
days. 

In selecting specimens, do not be satisfied with 
anything but the choicest varieties, for there is 
often very great difference in the beauty of varie- 
ties of the same species. This is especially true 
of wild asters, golden rod, and a few others. 
Some are bulbous, others tuberous. These need 
very careful handling. 

Such a bed, properly cared for, becomes more 
beautiful and satisfactory as the years go by. 



GLOSSARY 

Adobe. Spanish: Unburned brick. Also applied to a 
kind of chalky clay or rock. Usually strongly alka- 
line. 

Alkali. One of a class of caustic bases, as soda, or pot- 
ash. 

Annual. Living only one year. 

Anther. The summit of the stamen of a flower, contain- 
ing the pollen or fertilizing dust. 

Arborescence. Having the shape of a tree. 

Bi-ennial. A plant which produces roots and leaves the 
first year, and flowers, seeds or fruit the second year, 
and afterwards perishing. 

Booster. A plant forcer or protector. A boxlike form 
with open bottom, and one side covered with glass, 
designed to protect early plants from cold winds 
and frosts. Usually made of felt, wood, or paste- 
board. 

Bordeaux Mixture. A compound of blue vitriol, lime 
and water. 

Formula. Dissolve two pounds of blue vitriol in 
eight gallons of hot water. Also slake two pounds 
of fresh lime into three gallons of cold water. 
Strain each solution, and then mix, using a wooden 
container. 

This is the very best fungicide known, and is used 
in the treatment of blights, rots, mildews, molds and 
rusts. By adding one ounce of Paris Green to the 
above recipe, the mixture will also destroy all 
foliage-eating insects. Apply with a sprayer. 
Standard Bordeaux can usually be purchased at 
drug stores. 

131 



132 THE GAEDENETTE 

Blanch. To take the color out. To make white. 

Cole slaw. A cabbage salad. 

Compost. A mixture of various substances for fertiliz- 
ing or enriching the ground. 

Debud. To remove buds. In practice, all the buds but 
one on each stem are removed, so as to give increased 
size and vigor to the one remaining. 

Flat. A shallow box used in starting seeds and small 
plants. 

Fungicide. Anything that destroys fungi without in- 
juring the plant. 

Germinate. To sprout or bud. To start growth, either 
from seed or roots. 

Hellebore. A poisonous, whitish powder, made from the 
rhizome of the White Hellebore plant. For sale by 
druggists. Dissolve one ounce in three gallons of 
hot water. When cold, apply with sprayer on 
foliage of the plants. Or apply by dusting directly 
on the foliage when the latter is damp. Destroys 
slugs, worms, caterpillars and leaf-eating insects. 

Heeling out. Temporary transplanting. In heeling- 
out plants they are usually set somewhat closer and 
deeper than in ordinary transplanting. 

Insecticide. That which destroys insects without injur- 
ing the plants. 

Jardiniere. An ornamental flower pot or container for 
an ordinary pot. 

Mulch. Half rotten straw, litter, leaves, etc., used to 
cover roots of plants to hold moisture, and to protect 
from frosts. 

Also a layer of fine soil or dust around the plant to 
conserve moisture. 

Plunge. Plunging potted plants is to bury the pot in 
the soil so that its top is even with, or slightly below, 
the surface of the ground. 

Perennial. A plant that continues more than two years. 
Perpetual. 



GLOSSARY 133 

Procumbent. Lying down. Prostrate. Trailing. 

Puddle. A mixture of clay and water of about the con- 
sistency of cream; in this mixture the roots of the 
plants should be dipped before planting. 

Replant. To plant again when first planting fails to 
grow. 

Transplant. To remove and plant in another place. 

Trench. To dig very deeply in succession of parallel 
trenches, or rows of furrows. 



INDEX 



INDEX.— VEGETABLE GARDEN 



Asparagus, 49 

Beans, Tender Pods, 49 

Lima, 49-50 
Beets, 50 
Board Frames, 21 
Boosters or Plant Forcers, 30 

Cabbage, Early, 51 

Late, 51 
Carrots, 52 
Cauliflower, 52 
Celery, 53 
Cold Frames, 76 
Cold Pits, 76 
Cucumber, 58 
Celery Cabbage, 59 
Cultural Directions, 48 
Cultivation, 82 

Dates of Planting in the South, 

86 
Diagram of First Group Plant- 
ing, 38 
Second Group Planting, 40 
Third Group Planting, 42 
Fourth Group Planting, 44 
of First Succession, 46 
Directions for making Sandwich 
Beds, 18 

Eggplant, 57 
Endive, 57 

Fertilizers, 83 

Group Planting, 23 

Hot-bed Plants, 85 

Introduction, 13 

Kohl-rabi, 58 

Lettuce, 60 

Melons, Water, 60 

Musk or Cantaloupes, 34 
Muslin Screens, 22 



137 



Modified Sandwich Bed, 19 

Okra or Gumbo, 61 
Onion Sets, 61 
Onions Picklers, 65 

Parsley, 64 

Parsnip, 64 

Peas, 63 

Peppers, 64 

Pimentos, 66 

Pe Tsai or Celery Cabbage, 59 

Plant Incubator, 26 

Post Hole Method for Melons, 

etc., 34 
Potatoes, 62 

Preface to Third Edition, 5 
Pumpkin, 65 

Quick Germination, 25 

Radish, 68 

Reference table for Sowing, etc., 

94 
Rhubarb, or Pie Plant, 68 
in Winter, 69 

Salsify or Oyster Plant, 70 

Sandwich System, 17 

Space and production, 14 

Sprouting Seeds, 28 

Spinach, 70 

Strawberries, 88 

Succession to First Planting, 36 

Succession Table, 82 

Sugar Corn, 70 

Swiss Chard, 71 

Tomatoes, 46-72 
Tools and Appliances, 20 
Transplanting, 29 
Transplanting Table, 85 
Turnip, 80 

Watering, 83 



INDEX— FLOWER GARDEN 



Ageratum, 102 

Asters, 102 

Aquilegia (Columbine), 104 

Achillea, 104 

Anemone, 104 

Balsam, 104 
Begonia, 105 

Canna Indica, 105 
Caladium, 106 
Chrysanthemums, 107 
Cosmos, 108 
Clematis, 108 
Crocus, 25 
Cypress Vine, 109 
Centaurea (Dusty Miller), 109 
Cinnamon Vine, 110 

Dahlia, 110 
Digitalis, 111 
Delphinium, 111 
Dianthus (Pinks), 112 

Edging, 101 

Ferns, 112 

Geraniums, 113 
Gladiolus, 113 

Hardy Bulbs, 124 
Hedges, 100 
Hydrangea, 114 



Hyacinth, 125 
Honeysuckle, 114 

Iris, 114 

Kochia, 114 

Liliums, 115 

Lily of the Valley, 115 

Mignonette, 116 

Narcissus, 126 
Nasturtium, 116 

Peony, 116 

Pansy, 117 

Petunia, 117 

Phlox ( Drummondii ) , 117 

Perennial, 118 
Poppy, 118 

Roses, 118 

Desirable, 121 
Ricinus, 122 

Salvia, 123 
Sweet Pea, 123 

Tuberose, 126 

The Flower Garden, 97 

Tulip, 126 

Verbena, 124 

Zinnia, 124 



138 



AGRICULTURAL LITERATURE 



The Business of Farming 

By VVM. C. SMITH 

This is a book by a practical man, covering every subject 
of necessary knowledge for those interested to the slightest 
degree in Agriculture. This book is encyclopedic in its com- 
pleteness and utility. 



Practical Farmer, Philadelphia: 

In these days of intensive farming, lots of brains must 
be used in connection with brawn, and this work is excep- 
tionally well fitted to give great assistance. It treats of 
farming as a business, and the practical farmer can get 
much help from it. This book will also appeal to the lay- 
man who wishes to make a study of farming principles and 
conditions before he actually makes the farm his business. 



E. R. Lake, Secretary American Pomological Society, Wash- 
ington, D. C: 

Have just been reading sketches of that book on " Busi- 
ness of Farming," by Smith. Its general appearance, 
make-up and teaching is stimulating, and I may say fruit- 
ful or " foodful." It is just such books as this put up in 
an attractive style written by a strong personality and 
withal fraught with a fund of valuable material that ought 
to be placed before the boys and girls of our rural schools 
and homes. 



Times, New York: 

The book is full of good reading for the man who lives by 
agricultural work. The author tells how to farm properly 
and profitably. The man who follows Mr. Smith's direc- 
tions will be apt to increase the fertility of his soil, enlarge 
his income, and improve his home life. 



Dignified Binding. Handsomely illustrated with 88 full- 
page illustrations, and cover jacket in color Net $2.00 



AGRICULTURAL LITERATURE 

How to Grow 100 Bushels of Corn 
Per Acre on Worn Soil 

By WM. C. SMITH, of Indiana 
" How to Grow 100 Bushels of Corn per Acre on Worn 
Soil " is a most useful and interesting hook. The Author 
is a practical farmer, and in a practical way makes the 
conservation of soil plain. The growing efficiency of Gov- 
ernment Agricultural Department and Agricultural Schools 
in recent years has added greatly to the knowledge pos- 
sessed by the farmers of the method best suited to increase 
their crops. This volume, as the title suggests, will prove 
of inestimable value, and if its teachings are followed by the 
farmers throughout the country, it will revolutionize the 
art of farming and make it a most profitable business. 



Nero York Stm: 

" The book is full of practical directions about the treat- 
ment of the soil, plowing and the various plants which 
the author has tested. A good book for the farmer and lay- 
man alike." 



Otis M. Hicks, Rochester, N. Y.: 

" One thing about your book which I particularly like is 
the way you smash the traditions of the elders. So many 
of these smart old farmers around here have the idea that 
clover and timothy are the only grasses to grow, and that 
land that does not readily grow wheat is no good. I like 
to hear some one that can put it over on them. I have read 
and reread your book, for it seems to offer the solution to 
all my problems." 



Boston Transcript: 

" The author is a determined enemy of the soil robber. 
... To the possessor of worn-out land Mr. Smith offers the 
fruits of long experience, and he has certainly accomplished 
wonders. He treats exhaustively of soil, drainage, organic 
matter, ventilation, soil covering, etc. . . . His chapter of 
' Don't Forgets ' is a rich garden of agricultural epigrams, 
and not the least forceful warns the farmer : ' Don't forget 
that the soil-robber is the highwayman of agriculture.' " 

%k Full Page Illustrations, 12mo, Silk Cloth Net, $1.25 



Bird Studies 

Herman C. DeGroat, M. A. 

For home and school. Sixty common birds, their 
habits and haunts. Arranged to meet the require- 
ments in nature study in the schools of many of the 
States and Canada. Every bird is shown in its 
natural colors, thus making identification easy. 
Sixty full-page colored illustrations. Large 8vo. 
Special, Net $2.00. 



Book of the Black Bass : and More 
about the Black Bass 

James A. Henshall, M. D. 

Combined in one volume, new edition revised to 
date, and largely rewritten. Comprising its com- 
plete scientific and life history, together with a 
practical treatise on Angling and Fly-fishing, with 
a full account of tools, implements, and tackle. 
Seventh edition. 12mo. Cloth. 140 illustrations. 
Net $1.50. 



Practical Orcharding on Rough Lands 

Shepard "Wells Moore. 

A practical book, elaborately illustrated, contain- 
ing chapters on: Orcharding as a Business, Loca- 
tion, Drainage, The Aspect, Windbreaks, Prepara- 
tion of the Site, Laying off the Orchard, Selection 
and Care of the Nursery Stock, Planting the Tree, 
Care and Cultivation, Pruning, Spraying, Picking, 
Packing, and Marketing. 12mo. Net $1.50. 



NATURE AND UTILITY BOOKS 
Modern Horsemanship 

By Edward L. Anderson 

An original method of teaching the art by means 
of pictures from life. Fifth edition. Rewritten and 
enlarged. Sixty illustrations from photographs. 8vo. 
Cloth. Net $3.00. 



Scientific Horseshoeing 

By Prop. William Russell 

For leveling and balancing the action and gait of 
horses and remedying and curing the different diseases 
of the foot. 

Many illustrations in colors. Seventh edition. 8vo. 
Cloth. Net $4.00. 



Summer in a Bog 

By Katharine Dooris Sharp 

The out-of-doors by one who loves it, is here 
transcribed realistically. The majesty and mystery of 
Nature mingled with the humor of every-day life. 

Originality marks the pages of " Summer in a Bog " 
and it is at once apparent that the author takes rank with 
such writers as David Grayson and Gene Stratton- 
Porter. A book to entertain and to instruct. Almost 
unaware, facts of science are absorbed which point the 
way to further acquirement. 

The most casual reader may find amusement in its 
pages, while the student will give it a place on the shelf 
beside appreciated works of reference. 12mo. Ar- 
tistically bound. Handsomely printed. Net $1.25. 



